MANILA, Philippines―Imee Marcos could not have picked a better venue to celebrate her birthday, a place that so befits her personality: colorful, eclectic, sophisticated, zany, fun and downright “lukis!” What else could the place be but Café Juanita.

In the company of her family and friends, we feasted on Molo, Twice-Cooked Adobo, Phad Thai, Fried Lapu-lapu with Tamarind Sauce, Kare-kare, Guinataang Gulay and all her favorite desserts.

Café Juanita needs no introduction. After all, it is an institution. In an industry where many restaurants fold up as quickly as they open, this one is on its 17th year and counting!

That evening, wandering around, I got a glimpse of Kainan au Gusto, an artsy carinderia right beside Café Juanita.

The day after, I dropped by Kainan au Gusto. Something excites me about discovering affordable places to eat.

Luckily, Dr. Boy Vasquez, owner of both Café Juanita and Kainan au Gusto, was free. We talked over good ol’ Filipino and Chinese food and the whole story of this one-of-a-kind carinderia was revealed.

Kainan au Gusto used to be on the opposite side, fronting the gas station, and its customers were simple folk―tire boys, road repairmen, etc.

“What I wanted was to give my customers some dignity,” he said. “I wanted to raise their standards. I wanted them to know what good food and ambiance are, to eat in comfort, because they owe it to themselves na ang katawan nila ay i-upo naman nila sa masarap at maganda habang kumakain.”

The menu prices at Kainan au Gusto remained the same but Dr. Vasquez changed the ambiance.

“Pinaganda ko,” he said. “Ayun! Nawala na silang lahat! Na-intimidate siguro dahil ang mga kasabay nila mga naka-kurbata na. It’s very frustrating!”

Though frustrated, Dr. Vasquez surely can’t complain. Au Gusto, like Juanita, is a success story, though it has not achieved its purpose.

So blessed is Dr. Vasquez to have two culinary theaters to express himself. He considers Juanita a showcase for expressing himself as an artist. Au Gusto, on the other hand, is a showcase for memories of his boyhood home in San Isidro, Nueva Ecija.

“Ang food ko, yung natural na food na may style. Hindi fusion. Ang kare-kare inikot-ikot ko ang beans. Di ko binago ang lasa, ini-improve ko ang taste to my taste. The food I serve is the food I like to eat. Kung ayaw ko kainin pero gusto pa rin ng tao, I change it so I can eat it,” he says of his style of cooking.

We all know that his Filipino food rocks but his new offerings of Chinese dim sum are explosive!
At the carinderia, you’ll find delicious authentic siomai, beef wanton and pancit, which are among my favorites. Mura na, masarap pa!

So, what makes dining with the doctor so special?

Well, it is because he dishes out a whole experience. After each visit, you leave not just with a full stomach but a feeling of joy, wonder and, subconsciously, nationalistic pride.

Is it the food? The Filipino folk songs playing incessantly on the background? The objet d’art that surround you? Or is it the knowledge that we somehow share in his dream and become witnesses to his passion for food, art, culture and his pride in being Filipino?

Truth be said, it is all of the above.

It’s so good to know that there is a restaurateur who continues to believe that all Filipinos, without exception, deserve the best. One, who has gone out on a limb to preserve all that is innately, in Ms Marcos’ famous words, “true, good and beautiful” in the Filipino!

Dr. Vasquez, mabuhay po kayo!

For reservations, food orders (did I tell you that the carinderia can be booked for turo-turo-style parties and theey charge only per order?), call 6320357 or 6337160. Café Juanita is on United Street corner West Capitol, Pasig.

Ilokano Igado

When I was in the Philippines, I never learned how to cook igado the Ilokano way and never bothered to because someone cooked for me. Somehow, I regret it because I miss eating igado the way my grandma cooked it.

By the way she is from Paoay but they settled in Camiling, Tarlac. Can you please share with me how to cook igado the Ilokano way?

HISIE VELORIA,
WEST HILLS, CA 91304

From a GI in the Philippines, that’s me, to a GI in the United States, that’s you... here’s your recipe from Rolly, my dad’s driver, also a GI from La Union. Anyway, his igado is naimas! Enjoy!

Igado

¾ k liempo
2 pc bato (pig kidney)
2 pc lapay
½ k pork isaw
¼ k pork atay

Wash and slice pork pieces into thin strips of the same size, the thinner the better.

Combine all ingredients, except liver. Marinate for 1 hour in ¼ c toyo, 1 tsp pepper.

In a separate bowl, marinate liver in 2 tbsp vinegar for 30 minutes.

In a wok, heat ¼ c oil. Saute 1 c chopped onions and 2 tbsp garlic.

Add pork mixture except liver. Cook until it changes color.

Add 2 c water, bring to a boil then simmer.

If liquid dries out, keep adding 2 c of water, simmering over low heat until meat is tender.

Add liver and 2 pc siling pangsigang.

Season to taste with salt and pepper

E-mail the author at raspiras @inquirer.com.ph