MANILA, Philippines?It?s very pleasurable to walk around Chinatown to check out and reminisce about this culinary paradise. We all have our respective comfort-food stories that bring back pleasant memories. With the music of the ?70s playing on my I-pod, I walked inside one of Manila?s oldest panciterias:

Wah Sun had humble beginnings. The institution?s Benjamin Leung first worked in a family friend?s restaurant called Tojo?s. He started as a waiter, moved to the kitchen as a chopper, and eventually became a full-time cook. By then, he had discovered his passion for the food business. Later, he put up the noodle house, Wah Sun.

Ambiance

Many businessmen have since tried to duplicate its success. By its ambiance alone, you can tell that this one is original. The slow-moving ceiling fans and old tables and chairs all add to the authentic look of this culinary haven.

As you walk in, you see a glass case that displays Wah Sun?s specialty treats, like its authentic pancit canton and Macau-influenced dishes like camaron rebusado and lechon kawali.

I sat with Danny Dingokong, who narrated to me how, four decades ago, he and his dad used to frequent the place and chatted with Ben as they feasted on the panciteria?s specialties. We sampled the pata hamon, asado and lechon kawali. Delicious!

Today, Ben?s son, Benjie Jr., runs the place. Ask him to recommend their most popular dishes. Wah Sun is at 741 Florentino Torres st., Sta. Cruz, Manila. Call 734-1160 or 734-4108.

Happy eating!