MANILA, Philippines?Fashion is an industry that attracts personalities with huge egos?and surprisingly sensitive skins.
When egos collide, the ensuing feud can last for decades: between designers it could simply be a matter of one being dismissive of the other?s talents or achievements, as in the case of Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent. Between designers and members of the press, the repercussions could be quite harsh?no more invitations to the shows, no more freebies or press discounts, no more advertising in the magazines.
In 1987, a young French designer by the name of Christian Lacroix created a sensation in the jaded world of Paris couture with his intricate yet bold designs, in sumptuous fabrics heavily embroidered and embellished. Lacroix, who had formerly been with Jean Patou, was instantly heralded as the most exciting talent to emerge in years, a worthy successor to the acknowledged master of couture, Yves Saint Laurent.
Banning the media
All the key fashion press hailed Lacroix as the new hero of fashion. John Fairchild of the influential trade daily Women?s Wear Daily went one step further?he splashed Lacroix?s collection on the front page of WWD and called him ?A new star?no question.?
Fairchild, who had long been a supporter of Yves Saint Laurent, was promptly banned from the YSL show by the designer?s longtime business partner, Pierre Bergé. Fairchild was unrepentant. WWD devoted a mere six paragraphs to Saint Laurent?s collection, while Lacroix hogged the headlines.
Bergé accused Fairchild of using Lacroix ?to destroy Saint Laurent.? Fairchild shrugged off the accusations.
The feud continued for many years. But today, with Yves Saint Laurent himself no longer at the helm of his company?Stefano Pilati now designs for the label, which is now owned by the Gucci Group?and Fairchild gently eased out of the day-to-day running of WWD and Fairchild Publications, which now belongs to the Conde Nast Group, the feud has fizzled out.
As for other designers and the press, The New York Times? Cathy Horyn and Guy Trebay have been banned from the shows of Carolina Herrera and Dolce e Gabbana, ostensibly for panning their shows in previous articles. Horyn notably called Herrera?s Fall 2006 collection ?irrelevant,? which understandably irked the designer.
Suzy vs Marc
But the most recent--albeit short-lived--feud to stoke the fashion fires was that of International Herald Tribune?s Suzy Menkes and designer Marc Jacobs. At his recent Spring/Summer ?08 show during New York Fashion Week, Jacobs kept his audience waiting for a good two hours for his show to begin?close to midnight by the time his models sashayed down the runway. Jacobs, incidentally and cleverly, reversed the routine, taking his bow at the beginning instead of the end. An irate Menkes called Jacobs? collection ?a freak?s costume party,? which prompted Jacobs to lash out at Menkes and everyone else in a candid interview with WWD.
At the Louis Vuitton show last week in Paris, Jacobs kept the audience waiting once again, this time for more than an hour. Menkes was in the audience, and apparently Jacobs stuck his tongue out at her, which naturally had all other tongues wagging. But all?s well that ends well?it turns out that he had left a peace offering for her at her seat. It was a T-shirt tied up in a beautiful bow, and on the T-shirt was a drawing of Menkes and Jacobs together, embroidered by Lesage.
Bambina Wise is a correspondent for Women?s Wear Daily as well as communications director of the boutique PR firm Gulf Quest Media. She used to work for Piaget and Chanel in Hong Kong and currently resides in South Africa.