MANILA, Philippines?Mike de la Rosa makes 20 variations on the classic shift dress and the soft tailored pantsuit utilizing just two colors?luscious cream and jet black. Fabrics used are charmeuse, satin and crepe.

(De la Rosa collection is the continuation of the Fashion Watch Series at Shangri-La Makati.)

His luxurious ?really-to-wear? collection proves it takes a mature designer to best interpret the Now instead of the New in fashion. Dela Rosa?s triumph lies in tight editing and a seemingly simple, singular vision that makes his Filipina clients always look good.

First, the contrasting couture combination of cream and black specially worn with black stockings gives the wearer a polished look from head to toe. Consider the Filipina with her jet black hair and black eyes shining with the same luster as the silk charmeuse, the patent black shoes worn with black hose. You get the picture.

It?s his nod to British icons Mary Quant and Jean Muir, who freed women from the restricting clothes and undergarments of the ?50s. The Shift or the Sack Dress, first made by Cristobal Balenciaga, skims the bust, eliminates the waistline and only hints at the hips.

This elongated, seemingly shapeless form makes a woman look like a gamine, hence its eternal popularity.

De la Rosa?s other signature design is a ladies? pantsuit for the 21st century, tailored yet unlined. Not matching pieces, the suit is fluid yet with a bisexual vibe a la Marlene Dietrich in a tuxedo. Again, in all cream crepe or color blocked with black, the cardigan and flared pants sets are at architectural yet languid like an overcooked noodle.

These three-piece sets are designed to mix and match with every piece in a woman?s wardrobe. They form the alphabet of fashion.