MANILA, Philippines—The prospect of dining on food inspired by culinary luminaries led food lovers to the tables of the Tivoli at the Mandarin Oriental.
The multi-awarded restaurant was the setting for British Paul Anthony Quarchioni to recreate the food of some of the world’s celebrated chefs.
Over the last 21 years, Quarchioni has honed his skills in establishments in England and France which have garnered the coveted rosette distinctions or an enviable rating.
He had decided at age 16 to pursue a career in the kitchen, and applied in restaurants which were voted or counted among the best by the Michelin Guide or Gault Millau.
Over the years, he has worked alongside several distinguished names while establishing his own mettle.
Chef Paul joined the Le Normandie at the Oriental Bangkok in 2000 as chef de cuisine. It afforded him the opportunity to be at close range with Michelin-starred chefs who presided over various promotions at the fine dining outlet.
After three years, he was promoted to executive sous chef, a position he held till an opportunity opened up in the newest development of the hotel chain in Beijing.
Before assuming his post there, Manila extended the invitation to recreate an à la carte menu from his iconic affiliations.
First bite
The opening course at a preview dinner was the watermelon-and-goat cheese salad. It was a combination of two not uncommon foods that worked well at first bite. More than the refreshing fruit and the saltiness of the fromage, it was the simplicity of bringing these ingredients together that made it a pleasant beginning.
The appetizer was followed by crab salad with mango, mustard butter and cumin crisp, a signature of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, the French chef whose style is classified as Thai-French.
The crustacean’s meat was balled into a manageable portion beside a streak of mustard and balsamic reduction, accompanied by a wafer speckled with cumin seeds.
Forking into the slips of the crab’s white flesh uncovered parsley ensconced inside which melded with the flavor of the fresh basil garnish. The decorative swirls were meant to be consumed and added to the increasingly enjoyable taste discoveries.
The mouth was treated to a different sensation, from the mild chewing of the salad to the crackling of the thin biscuit that was sweet and left some hankering for more.
Chef Paul sent in the next dish he picked up from Michel Guerard, who is credited for cuisine minceur. The style of cooking evolved as a marketing strategy to bring Parisians to the family’s chain of spas in Eugenie-les-Baines in the Landes, which is some 800 km away.
The health benefits of the spa included food which has come to be known as lean cuisine.
The warm wild mushroom pillow with green asparagus and morel sauce came in a slightly deep plate with an aroma stronger than the delicate flavors.
Mushrooms, tucked into the pasta, waded in a foamy bath. Spooned together, it was unexpectedly light and left considerable room for what was to be a highlight on the degustation.
Michel Lorain
Michel Lorain is a third-generation chef who won his first Michelin star in 1971, his second in 1976 and his third, which he shared with his father, in 1986. He describes his food as with gaite, having the quality of joy and playful pleasure.
Chef Paul put together these attributes in the pan-fried duck foie gras with olives. Expertly seared to the glistening brown, it was preceded by a fragrance that only increased an anticipation of nothing less than outstanding.
There was no disappointment particularly when the rich flavor lingered at the tip of the tongue before being consumed with a fruity white wine or sauterne.
Washed with a sip of sweet Haughton 2000, it was an experience that merited another round. An unabashed call for seconds disregarded any health considerations for a repeat of a memorable serving.
Lorain made another showing when chef Paul brought out the Australian sea bass with oscietra caviar sauce.
The plump cut of fish rested on a bed of green vegetable strips in a creamy sauce. Black beads of caviar floated in a shallow pool of white liquid for an appearance that is visually agreeable and artistic.
The fish, which had been steamed, held firmly together and released easily to the minimal slicing effort, one tender piece at a time.
The greens, which appeared limp, turned out to be a crunchy bite, offsetting the softness of the saltwater species.
Palate cleanser
The palate cleanser was a lychee sorbet, which chef Paul thoughtfully provided as a break before sending in the beef.
His final entrée was inspired by Anne-Sophie Pic, the first woman in France awarded three Michelin-star since 1951. She is the sixth woman in the history of the Michelin Guide to have been bestowed this accolade.
A recent encounter with her at the World Gourmet Summit in Singapore increased the expectation on what would be credited as her contribution to the meal. The presentations of her food are intentionally simple and light. One journal quoted her—“I want to show off the product without stifling it. I think of my plates as paintings.”
The poached Australian veal tenderloin arrived at the table with chive butter and lemon-thyme potato gnocchi. Thin slices of eggplant, which had been marinated and grilled, accompanied the thick cut of meat and the pasta was slathered in green foam. There were a few colors and some volume, hallmarks of Pic.
When the knife touched the lightly browned beef part, it yielded effortlessly and revealed a bright pink juicy steak. It was so compelling that despite a tightening in the midsection which required a loosening of our belt, slices disappeared with no vigorous chewing required.
There were no protestations when, commenced with the veal, the strawberry soup with whole milk ice cream was served. Suddenly there was room again for the Pourcel Twins’ recreation.
The French brothers, sons of a winemaker, are said to have youthful exuberance which they bring into their food. The bowl of fresh red berries in cream ended the meal as it had begun, a combination of fresh ingredients in a simple preparation.
The menu listed several other dishes which required another visit or more to sample the offerings. Other than the gustatory experience, it was also an enjoyable way to make the acquaintance of some of the world’s celebrated chefs.
Chef Quarchioni will be at the Tivoli until Aug. 31.
The author is editor of LifestyleAsia.
Copyright 2009 Philippine Daily Inquirer. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.
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