MANILA, Philippines - Many photographers have this romantic notion that a photogenic face is one with symmetrical features, sculpted cheekbones, an oval-shaped face, young and flawless, etc. Pity the typically Malay-featured subject with a flat face, or, even worse, a round face or sagging cheeks and a small chin.

?There?s this misconception that if you shoot Gretchen Barretto or any of these beautiful women or nice-looking models, it will make the best photograph,? says Rupert Jacinto.

?I don?t look at it that way. My signature is elegance. Sometimes these young, beautiful models can?t project sophistication the way a mature person or a woman of stature would. It takes a certain age before the elegance is projected naturally. You can?t buy that. Beauty is really in the eye of the beholder. I?ve had subjects who were plump, but they were happy.?

Even if some subjects have moon faces, Jacinto doesn?t see roundness as a deterrent in making a good portrait. Instead, he works on lighting and focuses on their best features.

Positive mindset

To him, the best subject is one who is in a positive state of mind, born out of being physically and psychologically prepared for the shoot. Veteran sitters, models and celebrities would diet, get into a slimming or facial care program weeks before the shoot. Jacinto requires his subjects to bring their formals and accessories so he can select what looks best for the photos. He prefers natural-looking makeup?especially tailor-made for photography?with more saturated colors and is blended seamlessly. The application should define the features yet appear imperceptible.

Aside from having a good night?s rest, sitters are advised not to eat before the shoot because they might feel uncomfortable or bloated. ?They can take a sip of wine to relax,? he says.

Jacinto has been lucky that in his 28-year career, he?s never had to call off a shoot because the subject looked exhausted or jet-lagged, had a swelling face because of an allergy, ache or just a good cry.

?The most important factor in looking good for photos is to exude confidence,? he says.

Sounds easy but people are such complex creatures. They have preconceived notions about themselves. Jacinto underscores the importance of sincere human interaction between the photographer and the subject.

?If you just stand there and keep shooting, nothing much will come out of it.?

When the subjects start to relax, he cheers them up. ?The more you encourage them, the more they easily project themselves, and their natural beauty comes out. You really have to see it; you can?t fake it.?

The challenging part is capturing that best angle which is fleeting moment. He recalls that when he shot lawyer Mellie Ablaza, he made her sit on a chair and told her to hold that pose while his assistants moved her around until her best side faced his lenses.

?If she stood up, it would have been gone,? he says.

With male sitters, his only advice is to blot their faces; he discourages makeup for them. He likes to photograph the men standing up so they can easily project dynamism or success. If they are to sit, his only concession is a stool.

Jacinto prefers to shoot his subjects in the afternoon, especially at 3 p.m. when they are alert. It is ideal that the day of the pictorial should be devoted to that.

?No stress on that day. Be easy and light, and I?ll take care of the rest,? he says.