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TRICKS OF THE TRADE
Trend alert: winged eyeliner

By Kelly Misa
Philippine Daily Inquirer
First Posted 00:46:00 08/22/2008

Filed Under: Health and Beauty Products, Lifestyle & Leisure

MANILA, Philippines?One of the biggest makeup trends for Fall 2008 is the winged eyeliner, as seen in different thickness and versions at the Christian Dior, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta fashion shows.

Christian Dior was all about exaggerated lashes and liquid liner that seemed to evoke ?60s icons Bridget Bardot and Twiggy. Balenciaga came out with striking black, thickly lined winged eyes that looked dark and futuristic. And Bottega Veneta used purple to bring out a punky, edgy version of the winged eye.

For celebrity inspiration, look no further than the quintessential queen of retro, Amy Winehouse, who has been wearing the winged liner trend for years. Of course, a subtle version should be more suitable for everyday wear.

As stylish as this trend is, applying eyeliner can be intimidating. It requires a steady hand and loads of patience, so don?t expect perfectly lined eyes on your first try.

Practice makes perfect; lining the eyes is considered one of the toughest makeup applications to master. Maybelline color artist Harold Santos gives us a thorough guide to getting that liner on right, whether in pencil, gel or liquid form.

Practice precision. The basic rule is to apply the liner as close to the lash line as possible. Santos suggests, ?While applying the eyeliner, sit at a table in front of a mirror, with your elbows resting on the table to ensure you draw a straight line. Then tilt your head up, while looking down at the mirror. Doing this will make lining your eyes easier, as you have a clear view of your lash line.?

Go minimal. Eyeliner that?s applied too thickly may not look good on everyone; there?s a risk of looking messy when it is overdone.

?You can always build the liner?s intensity and thickness, but it is harder to correct it once it has already been applied,? says Santos.

This holds especially true for applying liquid eyeliner. For a cleaner and more precise liquid liner application, brush out the excess liquid on the back of your hand before lining your eyes. And if you want complete control, use the tool that makeup artists use?a thin slanted brush that is perfect for liquid liner application.

Be patient. With enough practice, lining your eyes should be quick and easy.

?The trick is to apply the liner in sections while gently holding the skin of your upper lid. The three sections are the inner upper lash line, the middle upper lash line and the outer upper lash line. Using short strokes while taking your time ensures minimal mistakes. And if you are still apprehensive, draw small dots or hyphens to outline the direction of your liner and connect them,? says Santos.

Be ready for mistakes. No matter how careful we are when applying makeup, mistakes happen. Santos? advice is to keep cotton swabs and eye makeup remover handy. And when you make a mistake, don?t panic. Simply dip the cotton swab into the eye makeup remover and use it to even out messy lines or erase any mistakes. The cotton swabs can also be used to smudge the liner for a softer look.

Line for your eye shape. Different eye shapes require different liner techniques; it is all about enhancing your eyes.

?Women with wide eyelids can get away with thick but soft lines drawn on their upper lids, while big, round eyes can benefit from a well-defined line that is extended beyond the outer corner of the eyes to make the eyes appear longer. Droopy-eyed women can be given a lift by tilting the liner upward and outward before it reaches the corners of the upper lids. And women with close-set eyes should line the upper lash line while leaving the inner corners of the eyes unlined to give the illusion of increased distance between the eyes. For chinitas, what works best is drawing a dark line on the upper lash line while gradually thickening it at the outer edge of the eye. To widen the eyes even more, apply pencil liner in taupe or light brown on the lower lash,? says Santos.

Wing it. Experimenting with trends should be fun! Practice different looks and find out what works best for you. To get the winged eye right, extend both the upper and lower eyeliners to your desired length.

Finish off by applying a bit of white eye shadow at the inner corners of your eyes. And don?t be afraid of color. Try liners in shades of purple, blue, brown and bronze.



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