BEAUTY IN THE BIG APPLE Solutions to common makeup mishaps By Mariel Chua Philippine Daily Inquirer First Posted 22:44:00 08/28/2008
NEW YORK—Even the most seasoned beauty pros encounter snags and setbacks when it comes to the proper application of makeup. For every 10 seamless strokes, there’s that single wayward sweep of mascara that ends up, not on one’s lashes, but on the eyelids.
The same goes for brushing on extra layers of blush, patting on too much concealer or going overboard with tweezers.
But just like the spin doctors in the service of misbehaving Hollywood starlets, there are experts to remedy beauty booboos and let you emerge unscathed, with lipstick and powder in place:
1. Beauty woe No. 1: “I’ve applied too much blush!”
Solution: This becomes a dilemma with ambient bathroom lighting—where everything is dewy and gorgeous—and then harsh lights of the outside world expose uneven swirls of blusher.
Beauty guru Bobbi Brown advises checking colors in natural light, which means applying makeup by a window. This way, what you see indoors is what you get outdoors. Also, consider the acidity of your skin. For some people, makeup changes color depending on body chemistry and how much one sweats.
2. Beauty woe No. 2: “I’ve smeared my mascara!”
Solution: There are two ways to address this. If mascara runs on lower lashlines, dip a cotton swab in makeup remover and lightly dab the area. Pat on loose powder to leave a smooth finish. If it smears on your eyelid, wait it out and apply loose powder on top.
When the smudge is completely dry (it will feel flaky), use a clean mascara wand, eyebrow brush or toothbrush to gently rub off the extra pigment.
3. Beauty woe No. 3: “My eyebrows are too thin from over-plucking.”
Solution: If your arches have gone circa 1994 on you, no sweat. Reach for light brown brow powder and fill in sparse frames with light, feathery strokes. If using a pencil, diffuse the harsh line by running a small brush or old mascara wand to create hair-like flecks.
(Whenever I mess up my eyebrows, I resort to bangs. They’re the perfect camouflage and the most stylish way to wait for brows to grow back.)
4. Beauty woe No. 4: “My concealer looks obvious.” Solution: The reverse-racoon effect is notorious among concealer ingénues. And it’s not surprising because most have come to believe that concealer must be one shade lighter than your skin tone.
The thing is, this rule only applies if you are using concealer as a highlighter after you’ve applied foundation, which is commonly the case during shoots and professional applications. But in real life, what you really need is a product that matches your natural hue, and if you really want something brighter, go no more than half a step lighter.
Otherwise, the pigment will simply draw attention to dark circles and look unflattering in pictures (Facebook profile photo, anyone?).
5. Beauty woe No. 5: “I look like a clown with my foundation, it’s too white.”
Solution: I call this the May-December dilemma, wherein the new foundation you bought in December now looks too pale on your post-summer, sun-kissed complexion.
No need to throw it out. Just keep a darker shade on standby to mix in with what you have on hand. Another tactic is to dust on dark loose powder or bronzer to offset the extra-light tones.
Tip: When faced with a makeup disaster, relax. You can always put your hair up, wash your face and start all over again. And if time is of the essence, count on lipstick and pressed powder for a quick, no-mess finish.
Mariel Chua is the former beauty editor of Cosmopolitan, Seventeen and Ok! Magazine. She is now based in New York City. Visit NyMinuteNow.com.
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