MANILA, Philippines - In December 1999, the UNESCO World Heritage Committee inscribed the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park in the World Heritage List, citing it as part of the irreplaceable natural heritage of the world because of its unique geological features and its globally significant biodiversity.

The Subterranean River is a good example of how comprehensive a World Heritage site should be. When it was first nominated for World Heritage inscription, the area of the Park was approximately 4,000 hectares with the Subterranean River at its center.

After visiting the site, Unesco advisers pointed out that an entire tropical ecosystem existed around the Subterranean River, recommending that the Park area should be enlarged so all parts of the ecosystem would be within the protected area.

Now the Park has an area of 22,000 hectares. The original 4,000 hectares is designated the core preservation zone with an additional 18,000 hectares as the protective buffer around it, ensuring that most of the ecosystem supporting the Subterranean River now lies within the 22,000-hectare boundary of the park.

The other parts of the various ecosystems that compose the Park are the hills, valleys, flatlands and coastal areas surrounding the river, with an additional network of ecosystems that range from tropical rainforest and beach forest to mangroves, sandy beaches and coral reefs.

High biodiversity

The variety of habitats gives the Park a high degree of biodiversity. There are at least 149 different vertebrates, including 90 bird species, 30 kinds of mammals, 19 reptiles and 10 amphibians found in the Park, all endemic to Palawan, meaning that they exist nowhere else on earth.

There also are a number of endangered bird species like the cockatoo, blue-naped parrot, Palawan peacock pheasant, the Palawan owl and others. Threatened mammals in the Park include the scaly anteater and binturong (Palawan Bearcat).

Magnificent limestone formations make up the spectacular mountain range within the Park. The Subterranean River runs under limestone and karst mountains, through which water constantly drips, hardening into rock formations seen in the river. The Subterranean River’s caves are the most outstanding karst feature of the park.

A result of rain and ground water dissolving the limestone above and below the ground surface, the landscape is an outstanding vista of spectacular cliffs that are practically vertical towers and spires.

Inside the Subterranean River is another fascinating ecosystem. A vast number of swiftlets roost deep in the crevices of the cave together with a bat population with numbers estimated to be about 47,000.

Forests

The Park is as spectacular as the Subterranean River that it shelters. There are different types of forests: lowland evergreen forests, karst forests and beach forests.

The lowland evergreen forest is a tropical rainforest where trees grow tall and straight, their branches forming a dense canopy that allows little light to reach the ground.

The main characteristic of the karst forest is the weathered limestone forming a majestic landscape of jagged spires and pinnacles. A set of plants has adapted to the vertical cliffs by developing extensive root systems to anchor themselves in the crevices of the rocks.

In small, sandy coves isolated by the karst cliffs is the beach forest that is characterized by plants that tolerate sandy soil and salt spray from the sea.

The Intertidal Zone is where the land meets the sea. It is the area where the mangrove community provides an important buffer zone rich with a productive ecosystem that provides shelter to young fish which feed on algae. There also are crabs, sea urchins and other crustaceans. Birds’ nests are on the mangrove branches.

Although the Philippine law protects all mangroves, these irreplaceable ecosystems fall victim to coastal development or cleared to make ponds for aquaculture.

Adding to the variety of the Intertidal Zone are sandy beaches and rocky shorelines, each with their own ecosystems that are the transition zones for the underwater coral reefs in the protected area of the Park.

Tropical forests and coastal ecosystems found in the Park are some of the most biologically diverse and important habitats on earth, where ecosystems are threatened by increasing human activities.

Rapidly growing population outside the boundaries of the Park lead to clearing of land in the upper watershed areas for agriculture. With agriculture comes the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides and soil erosion that threaten the marine life. Coastal resources in the Philippines are rapidly declining due to the clearing of beach forests and mangroves.

The Park Management takes protection seriously. Within its protected zone, a management plan to maintain the integrity of the natural resources is carefully followed.

The management also limits tourist visits to designated areas. Tourists who visit the rainforest must stay on a wooden walk that makes a path through the forest. Only authorized bancas manned by certified local guides are authorized to take visitors into the Subterranean River under strict safety conditions.

Puerto Princesa Underground River is one of the few examples of effective protected area management in the Philippines, a model for site managers to visit and see for themselves how effective management can be done to the natural beauty of this country.

The photographs on this page by Neal Oshima are from “Living Landscapes and Cultural Landmarks,” published by ArtPost Asia (www.artpostasia.com).

Tapestry classes
Victoria Gill, who has fine arts and science degrees in art conservation and who has taught in Australia, will hold classes on traditional weaving and tapestry, starting Oct. 6, 10.30 a.m. For more info, e-mail victoria.gill@endangeredheritage.com

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