THE QUIET DINER
From paella to grilled ribs
By Restos at a glance
Philippine Daily Inquirer
First Posted 21:56:00 10/01/2008
Filed Under: Food, Lifestyle & Leisure
MANILA, Philippines—A “Back In Time” restaurant, an Asian specialty outlet in a five-star hotel and the very “now” Ribs Griller, gave this diner a satisfying selection of where and what to enjoy the past week.
Spanning an era that has gone by a regional food trip, to neighboring Asian cities, and a crowded experience in a member of the popular chain, follow our rail and make your choice. Respective menus are offered for lunch and dinner.
La Cocina de Tita Moning
315 San Rafael St., San Miguel, Manila, (tel. 734-2146) with branches at the SM Mall of Asia and Magallanes Village (tel. 852-4575).
The San Miguel restaurant is in an old historic house, seemingly untouched by any modernity.
The Dining Area. Located at the second floor of the building. Immediately past history envelopes, the visitor with tables and chairs represent a by-gone era. A tour of the rest of the house would give those of the present generation an insight into how the “ilustrados” lived in that century.
The Staff. Gentle ladies, wearing the traditional crisp black cotton dresses worn under their aprons and with dainty hair cups giving them the look being really “servicial.”
The Service. Courteous, gentle, quiet and efficient.
Suggested Meal. They offer daily set meals (P1600 per person ++). Last week’s set included Sopa de Oro (Pumpkin) soup, a starter, Roast Pork with Candied sweet potatoes and dessert. If choosing a la carte the choice is wide, needless to say there’s Paella and Cocido (P500).
The usual charges are imposed.
Rating:**
Spices
Ground level of the Manila Peninsula Hotel in Makati City (tel. 812-3456 local 6694). The list includes Indian, Malaysian, Thai, Vietnamese and Filipino dishes done the authentic way.
The Dining Area. Choose a table in the area overlooking the pool and garden. It is brighter as well. There are always fresh blooms at the center and tables are not so close to each other.
The Staff. A gracious lady receptionist greets the guests and turns them over to the restaurant’s waiting staff, all welcoming, courteous and ever present without being intrusive.
Service. Fast and efficient with big help from the waiters when making an order. Water with mint leaves immediately poured gently into the drinking glasses. Tell them if you want the spices tempered.
The Food. Ask the waiters for suggestions. Always we would start with Indian Naan Bread (Lasuni, garlic or Nasuk, with cheese and cumin seeds), pancake type bread, perfectly hot, soft and chewy (P150 each), which would normally tickle our taste for other dishes to come. Then the Vietnamese Canh Chua Ca, hot and sour fish soup with pineapple and tomatoes (P390). If appetite is not big, as ours, appetizers can be skipped. Main course, either any of the curries, like Malaysia’ s Asamg Goreng (beef short ribs with tamarind sauce-P690) or India’s Tandoori Murgh (Roasted Chicken marinated in Yoghurt and spices (P650). For dessert, we went Filipino and had the Langka Cheesecake (P260)
Usual VAT and service charges.
Rating:**
Racks
With “Flamed grilled and falls to the bones” ribs. Newly opened at the third level of Festival Mall, Chef’s Avenue in Alabang (tel . 8092189).
If dining on weekend, must come early, for at 11:10 a.m. last weekend, we had to wait for a table for at least 20 minutes.
The Dining Area. Very bright, too much light, done in white and heavy cream. There’s a small private room, where 18 people on two tables are squeezed in. The frightening flames can be seen in all areas, adding “drama” to the grilling process.
The Staff. Our girl JoAnn, was accommodating, if at times looking already confused. There’s enough of them, but too many diners, mostly families.
The Service. Average. Drinks were served, no bottomless tea.
Suggested Meal. Garlic bread came rather soggy and rice was very cold (even after we requested that it be re-heated). House Salad (Veggies-P125) was good and so were the baked beans (P50 for regular serving). We opted for the family platter of ribs (Pork, Beef and Chicken - P1,055). The ribs were a bit over-grilled and last layers turned very black and tough. Dessert redeemed them—a Towering Mississippi Mud Pie and equally tall Classic Apple Pie.
Usual charges are imposed.
Rating:**
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