MANILA, Philippines?After having a most unforgettable steak affair last week, I must say that Philippine Wagyu has finally made a breakthrough.

The steaks are now at palatal prime in taste, texture and flavor. It is a product of its ?terroir??the combination of natural environment, land and climate, which has direct impact on the taste of the food; the concept basically applies to wine, with the same grape, grown under different conditions, producing wines of totally different character. Philippine Wagyu is distinct and can?t be compared with other Wagyus.

Unlike its Japanese counterparts (Kobe, Matsuzaka, Ohmi) that melt in your mouth, the Philippine version is incredibly soft, fine-marbled, with a medium yet well-rounded meaty flavor that?s nice and easy to chew?even for those with dentures!

I like my steaks to be a bit chewy, which is why I like this Pinoy version.

I pay my respects to the Father of Philippine Wagyu, Manuel Agustines, of Umalag Farms, for all his efforts to give us exceptional Wagyu beef?at half the price.

This is another reason to be proud of the Filipino.

Allan Cueva of Umalag Farms explains the only herd of Wagyu in the Philippines:

Umalag Farms

?Umalag Farms has a total herd population of around 1,200 heads and is located in two ranches in Bukidnon?Somilao town, at the foot of Mt. Kitanglad at an average elevation of 1,000 meters above sea level; and beside a river, in the town of Manolo Fortich, with an average elevation of 600 meters.

?The elevation is key because the Wagyu breed was developed in temperate regions.

?The cool winds from Mt. Kitanglad and the fresh breezes from Macajalar Bay in nearby Cagayan de Oro provide just the right hospitable environment for this special breed.

?The Wagyu herd was started in 2000 with the importation of 24 pure Wagyu bulls and cows from Australia. The cows from these Brahmans were used to breed the first generation of Wagyus born, bred and fattened in the Philippines.

?From that initial cross or F1 animals, the farms have since progressed to much higher Wagyu content in their offspring. Among those being fattened now are F3 crosses containing up to 87.5 percent of the Wagyu breed.

?The good news is that the tendency to inherit the marbling trait is very high?as shown in the beef produced even from first crosses.

?The current slaughter rate is still at a low 12 to 15 heads per month, but is expected to reach up to 20 a month in 2009. The majority of slaughters are second or F2 crosses, up to 75-percent Wagyu.

?The marbling scores have thus far been an average range of 6 to 8 from the Japanese scale of 1 to 12. The higher the score, the better. (This is considered superior because very little beef with scores higher than nine have been found outside Japan.)?

Why Wagyu costs so much

?It is expensive because the whole process from ?paddock to plate? takes time, patience and money. Shortly after weaning, the calves, while still on limited grazing, are already given a supplementary diet to train them for the feedlot.

?At 14 months, the cattle are then transferred into a feedlot. For 16 to 20 months, they do nothing but feed and concentrate on developing that characteristic that makes them famous and sought-after?marbling.

?Marbling is intra-muscular fat distributed finely and evenly, mainly in the loin muscle containing the rib-eye and striploin. It not only contributes to the flavor, but also allows exceptionally efficient cooking because the tiny fat slivers baste the inside meat while the surface cooks. (Other feedlot cattle are fattened for only 90 to 120 days.)

?After slaughter, the half-carcasses are hung in large chiller rooms for 14 days to age. This enhances the beef?s tenderness and flavor.

?Adherents of ageing claim a distinct, delicious nutty flavor that can only be acquired through this process. (In Japan, some beef is aged up to 60 days.)

?After 14 days, the prime cuts are cut wholesale, vacuum-packed and stored in chillers where they stay until purchased. There is a demand for ?never frozen? beef because of the minimal loss in juices (and therefore flavor).?

To get a taste of Philippine Wagyu, the farm now has a Meat Shop in Makati, along Pasong Tamo. Call 09209192911 and 09209043410. They also deliver.

I cannot end without lauding the skills of our grill man that evening, whose steaks were seasoned and grilled to perfection. At a minute per side, the beef was exactly what I would consider worthwhile?even for an angioplasty! Manong Meng, Salamat po!

E-mail the author at raspiras@inquirer.com.ph