POPULAR folklore has it that the name ?Cubao? could be traced to a hunchback who used to live in a grassland acquired by J. Amado Araneta, where the old Highway 54, now Edsa, cut through.

?Kuba? is the Tagalog word for hunchback?hence, ?Cubao.?

The site of what used to be Asia?s biggest coliseum and the country?s first ever mall (Ali Mall?in honor of Muhammad Ali?s historic ?Thrilla in Manila? bout with Joe Frazier at Araneta Coliseum) has been having a facelift. First came the modern and luxurious Gateway Mall. Up next: high-rise apartments to be built by Megaworld called Manhattan Garden Residences.

Gone are the red-carpet movie premieres at New Frontier Cinema and the annual Christmas animated display of the old C.O.D. The Fiesta Carnival, too, has given way to newer attractions.

But through all these changes, Cubao has kept some landmark destinations:

Farmer?s Market

If you want the freshest produce and flowers, Farmer?s is still the best. It launched the political career of J. Amado Araneta?s grandson, Sen. and 2010 ?presidentiable? Manuel ?Mar? A. Roxas, when he shot his famous ?Mr. Palengke? TV spots right in the wet area of Farmer?s.

Farmer?s has also attracted international visitors such as Thailand?s ex-Prime Minister (and chef) Samak Sundaravej, who did a whole-day shopping when he decided to cook for his embassy staff in Manila.

Another recent Manila visitor, ?No Reservations? and ?Kitchen Confidential? author Anthony Bourdain, also sampled the flavors and ambience of Farmer?s Market.

National Bookstore

Other than the original Sta. Cruz store, National Bookstore?s Cubao Superstore is a must for any bookworm. Eight floors of books, old and new, await the booklover.

To keep up with the changing face of Cubao, National has had a major facelift?a sleek glass exterior to complement its next-door neighbor, Gateway Mall.

Cubao Shoe Expo

It used to be called Marikina Shoe Expo?a pet project of then First Lady Imelda Marcos to showcase the genius of local shoemakers. A project similar to Barstow Factory Outlet in the US, Marikina Shoe Expo was a one-stop shop for bargain shoe shopping.

Now that the place has been renamed Cubao Expo, it has grown a more bohemian atmosphere. With BPOs and call centers rising, Cubao Expo now has quaint coffee shops and drinking places, art galleries and curio shops.

The old-timers such as Valentino and Soliman made-to-order shoes are still there, as well as the highly-popular Janilyn?s and the must-eat Italian resto called Bellini?s.

New additions include Vintage Pop, The Breathing Space, David & Mia Kaufman?s Karma Shoe Store, film directors Lyle Sacris and Erik Matti?s restaurant cum art gallery Mogwai and even Binondo?s original Ho-land (Hopia Land).

On weekends, stalls line the driveway selling ukay-ukay items, including books.

I was lucky enough to buy an original Filipino translation of Dr. Jose Rizal?s ?El Filibusterismo? for P30 and Oscar Wilde?s ?The Picture Of Dorian Gray? for only P50.

Opposite Cubao Shoe Expo is the old Rustan?s Superstore in Cubao, which now has ukay-ukay and US surplus shops.

Whatever changes Cubao undergoes?and whether the hunchback story is true or not?Cubao seems destined to remain the grand dame of shopping in the Philippines.