WHEN was the last time you heard about a bag design that almost all members of the bag-loving community cove-ted?

I hate to pose that question for fear of sounding so un-bag hag-like. But, really, it has been a while.

While Balenciaga continues its run with the original ?Motorcycle? bag that has mutated into different shapes and sizes, Chloe and Fendi haven?t really been so lucky with their recent ?it? bags, the Paddington and the Spy, respectively.

However, I?m still seeing old favorites like the LV Monogram Speedy, Hermes Birkin, Hermes Kelly, Chanel 2.55 and classic quilt flap bags on women?s arms. So are the new ?It? bags the old classics?

There are a lot of nice new bags, like the Givenchy nightingale bag, which is almost the de rigueur bag for chic Parisians. There?s also the Valentino petale dome bowler bag, the Marni balloon bag with the beautiful lacquer handle, even the Prada lace bag.

They?re beautiful, but are they mainstream enough to be considered today?s must-have bags? Perhaps. But they?re not really regarded as ?it? bags. ?It? bags are those that can cause serious purchase pandemonium when sales associates put them on the sales ?floor?.

?It? bags are the ?of this moment? bags, the ones that give stores those mile-long wait lists.

Shifting preferences

While there hasn?t been any decline in the clamor to own a recognizable designer bag?preferably one with monograms and logos?discerning bag lovers have taken their usual choices one step further. They?ve graduated from the usual monogram bags to those of exquisite workmanship?without the logos.

For instance, while Louis Vuitton is most known for classic monogram styles, this French brand also manufactures a beautiful goat-skin leather goods line called Suhali.

In the past, the Suhali line consisted of bags with prominent gold studs. The collection, though exquisite, has never really caught my fancy. But just a few months ago, Vuitton came out with the Le Majestuex bag, a similar take on the Batignolles tote from the monogram line. Now this Suhali bag caught my eye.

This particular style is very functional and classic, but what sets the bag apart from other Suhali pieces is its understated look; the gold hardware studs were positioned sparingly. Also, the use of yellow stitching against the black version of this bag made it look modern but still classic. This bag will definitely survive years of use and its style will transcend trends.

Understated

Another understated and relatively ?low key? brand is Bottega Veneta. But, though understated, it must be said that Bottega produces one of the best buttery-soft leather goods in the world. Its intrecciato or woven leather style has become something of a signature, a ?monogrammed
logo? if you will?the style the brand is most known for.

If I were to pick the styles from this brand that would survive season after season, I would pick the intrecciato hobo, called the Veneta.

For those who don?t appreciate the single-strap shoulder bag style, there?s the versatile Montaigne, which morphs from a satchel to a zipped tote with the release of the side twist locks.

For those who want a fuss-free luxury bag, the Milano fits the bill. It?s a bugatti-shaped bag with zippers that go all the way from one end of the bag to the other, allowing it to open up wider than the others.

It also comes with a shoulder strap and is surprisingly light.

With so much economic uncertainty these days, it?s understandable that bag hags are going back to the safer classics. Perhaps the ?it? bag is dead?for now.