THE waist is back in focus, and whatever lingering doubts fashionistas had about it were finally put to rest by veteran designer Cesar Gaupo in a show this week at Makati Shangri-La.

?I want to give the empire cut a rest,? said Gaupo. ?It?s time for a more defined silhouette.?

The country?s undisputed ?RTW King? and designer of global brand Shanghai Tang presented a 39-piece collection that was noteworthy not only for its emphasis on the waist and its sculptural silhouette, but also for its play on volume and texture and choice of colors and fabrics.

The clothes were anything but off the rack; Gaupo himself could attend to each customer in his Bel-Air studio. The designer used to do only bridal gowns in between RTW collections for HK-based Shanghai Tang.

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Gaupo capped the year-long series with knee-length dresses (no gowns, mind you) that combined such exquisite materials as Thai silk, jacquard, brocade, chiffon and a clingy beaded fabric to create a distinct East-meets-West aesthetic that managed to look fresh and luxurious, feminine and sophisticated.

?I focused on the waist because next year will be heavily influenced by the ?80s,? he said. ?Dresses will be very structured, very (Thierry) Mugler.?

Apart from making most of his models wear Balenciaga-inspired cummerbund belts made of leather and python, Gaupo also went for contrast by reserving most of the drama (and hard work!) for the dresses? top.

Thus, while almost all of Gaupo?s skirts were variations of the classic pencil cut, his tops allowed him to showcase his ability to manipulate fabrics using various techniques?draping, layering, tailoring and pleating.

New twist

He gave a new twist to such classics as the peplum, mandarin collar, kimono sleeve and figure-flattering blouson. Indeed, a few dresses didn?t zero in on the waist to probably give clients, particularly mature women, more options.

?I didn?t have anything concrete in mind,? he said. ?Nothing was really well-planned. What was certain was I wanted volume, texture and a play on fabrics to achieve such silhouettes.?

His skirts, however, weren?t devoid of drama. Some either had uneven hemlines or echoed the folds, tiers and flaps of their tops. It should come as a surprise to some in the audience that a good number of Gaupo?s pieces weren?t separates.

?Some may look like separates, but they?re not. You don?t need my help to put them on. You can do it yourself or with a bit of help from the maid,? the self-deprecating designer said.

That he wasn?t afraid to combine colors and prints in one dress was evident. Some color combos, however, particularly apple green and aqua, proved a tad too whimsical for the mature dresser, while black and red was simply too predictable for the PYT.

In fact, the collection?s unusual juxtaposition of fabrics proved to be its own strength as well as its own undoing. While Gaupo?s neutral pieces with strategic jolts of bright colors and eye-catching accessories looked smart, versatile and easy to carry, his more colorful variations were a bit tricky to pull off.

Rather than simply let the unusual mix of materials and techniques speak for themselves, he allowed weird color combinations to have a say as well. To be fair, a good number of his audacious attempts at juxtaposition worked splendidly.

?I love colors and I always play with them. But colors come out when you think of certain individuals, certain characters,? he said. ?In this case, I came up with the dresses first before assigning each piece to the perfect model.?

Despite the play on bold colors and distinct patterns and textures, Gaupo didn?t want his collection to be described as ?boho,? and for good reason. After all, his made-to-order dresses were anything but unstructured and put together randomly.

In fact, he even paired some pieces with matching or contrasting shoes and bags he himself designed under the Gaupo label. His decision to do short dresses was an inspired move, as it allowed his followers to admire his shoes as well. In the hands of a master, red-carpet dressing need not be limited to long, flowing dresses.