IT?S been almost a hundred years since chemist Thomas Williams blended coal dust with Vaseline for his sister, Mabel, to produce the first commercial mascara. (He called it Maybelline.)

Soon after came the invention of the eyelash curler (thanks to Kurlash), and later on Helena Rubenstein started the first fluid mascara with a wand applicator.

We?ve come a long way from the ingredients used back then, some of which were toxic enough to cause blindness! Nowadays, our mascaras have specific formulas and wands that are designed to target our needs, whether it?s for lengthening, thickening or defining eyelashes.

There is something very sexy about long, lush lashes. They make the eyes appear bigger, brighter and more awake.

We?ve heard a lot of do?s and don?ts when it comes to applying mascara. How true are they? Let?s set the facts straight with the help of renowned makeup artist Xeng Zulueta.

You only need one kind of mascara to lengthen, thicken and define your lashes.

Fiction. We each have different types of eyelashes. The trick is to know what you have and what you want out of your mascara.

?If you have long, sparse lashes, you need a thickening mascara; those with thick and short lashes should choose a lengthening and defining mascara, while short and sparse lashes will benefit from a volumizing and lengthening mascara,? says Zulueta.

From there, you can choose between a waterproof or non-waterproof formula. ?In my case, I have thick but short lashes and my eye area tends to get oily throughout the day. So I choose a waterproof, lengthening formula that prevents me from getting raccoon eyes,? explains Zulueta.

Before applying mascara, you have to pump the wand first to get the right amount on your lashes.

Fiction. ?One of the most common mascara practices is vigorously pumping the wand into the tube. Doing this introduces air into the tube and dries out the formula, shortening your mascara?s shelf life,? warns Zulueta.

It is best to quit this habit and scrape the sides of your mascara instead.

You have to remove the gunk from the wand with a tissue before applying the mascara.

Fiction. ?I usually swipe the gunk on the tip of the wand on the side of the opening of the mascara tube. Wiping the gunk on a tissue will only gather the fibers, which get mixed into the mascara when you twist the applicator back,? says Zulueta.

Curling your lashes after you?ve applied mascara can break off the hairs of your lashes.

Fact. Many women are guilty of this, and every time they do it there is a possibility of pulling out their lashes.

?If you properly curl your lashes before applying mascara, you won?t need to take this risk. I say risk because there is a chance of pulling out a lash or two as the mascara makes the lashes stick to the rubber of the eyelash curler,? says Zulueta.

It is better to be on the safe side and curl before mascara, as eyelash hairs take a long time to grow back.

You should never apply mascara on your lower lashes.

Fiction. ?I always apply mascara on the lower lashes to balance out the volume on top,? says Zulueta.

Lightly running the wand along your lower lashes can add definition to your eyes. Just don?t go overboard as the mascara has a tendency to clump or smear in that area.

?If you have chosen a non-waterproof mascara, it is understandable why you should omit the lower lashes as they might smudge later on,? explains Zulueta.