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TRICKS OF THE TRADE
Cover up imperfections

By Kelly Misa
Philippine Daily Inquirer
First Posted 00:34:00 12/12/2008

Filed Under: Health and Beauty Products, Lifestyle & Leisure

SOME people believe a concealer is an eraser that magically covers all blemishes, dark circles and trouble spots.

The reality is, it cannot make problem areas disappear. Rather, it blends them in with the rest of the face, drawing as little attention to them as possible. The imperfections are still there, but they just become less noticeable.

Finding the right concealer formula is key. Choosing the wrong consistency and tone can result in disasters like reverse raccoon eyes, a highlighted pimple or a cakey finish.

Makeup artist to celebrities Lala Flores knows just what concealer to use to hide a specific imperfection. She shares some tips:

Three formulas

Concealers come in three different formulas?light diffusing, cream and dry pencil forms. Each is made to suit certain skin types and camouflage particular areas.

Light Diffusing Concealer. This comes in sheer and ultra-light textures, and is ideal for lifting the tired points of the face, like the corners of the nostrils, under the eyes and the sides of the mouth. It provides light coverage and can be worn on its own, without foundation or powder.

Cream Concealer. This works well to hide scars and birthmarks and comes in a creamier, drier texture. This is the favorite of makeup artists as it offers great coverage while working well on photographic and television lighting.

Dry Pencil or Stick Concealer. This acts as a spot corrector, as it targets small areas like pimples and scars. It has the driest and richest pigment and because of the absence of oil it adheres to the skin longer.

How to apply

When applying concealer, the rule is to use one shade lighter to highlight and bring forward the tired areas of the face, and one shade darker to push back or minimize bumps.

?The best way to know which parts to conceal or highlight is to lower your chin down and check where dark shadows fall on your face (normally it is along the orbital bone). Dot the concealer using your ring finger, let it settle and apply more if needed,? says Flores.

To hide under-eye bags, the concealer must be applied on the shadow beneath the bags and not on the area itself. Applying on the eye bags will highlight the problem rather than disguise it.

Avoid a cakey finish by prepping the skin before applying concealer.

?Using a light eye cream allows the concealer to stick and prevents the area from wrinkling,? recommends Flores. Also, piling on too much concealer and powder leads to more wrinkling.

Flores suggests using the right formulation for the specific area, and applying products a little at a time.

Some palettes have additional colors like green, lilac, blue and apricot in them.

?These color-correctors are used to counter-balance opposing hues, tone down or brighten the complexion and camouflage imperfections,? explains Flores.

Green takes out the redness out of blemishes, thread veins, sunburn and ruddy cheeks; lilac revives a tired, sallow complexion; blue works well to balance pale skin and apricot enhances tired skin.

But Flores reminds us, ?If your concealer has the right formulation to suit your specific needs, you do not need these color correctors. Makeup artists use them because we always work with lights for TV or photography.?



Copyright 2012 Philippine Daily Inquirer. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

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