IN olden times, George Pua, Chinese culinary guru/proprietor of Modern China Restaurant (Glorietta 4 at the Ayala Center), would be the emperor of his own little kingdom, deciding the fate of each dish as it is cooked and served to honored guests. But these are modern times, and China is something else. China, or its culinary influence, is everywhere.

Modern China is the kind of restaurant that families and friends visit either for lunch or dinner. The no-nonsense ambience, with just a hint of Orientalia, would make any diner feel comfortable. It also says a lot about the price?very reasonable; and the style of cooking? no hocus pocus with artificial seasonings, very natural and almost like home.

A tycoon, when he holds his weekly management committee in a nearby building, orders take-out food.

?His favorite is Southern Pork, which is the Beijing version of our adobo, except that it is cooked for two days. He prefers to have them sliced and served as sandwiches. He keeps them in the fridge so he can have a bite anytime he wants to,? George says.

The restaurant has its share of celebrity regulars, CEOs, and COOs of multinational companies. The secret is in the international offerings?Singapore Chili Crab, Thai Curry Crab, Fried Crispy Pork Knuckles not unlike the Filipino Crispy Pata but not exactly the same, and Pan Fried Snow Flake Beef Steak. One opts for either US Angus Beef, or Japanese Wagyu which, George declares, ?melts in the mouth.? On top of all these, there?s Tempura Prawn? again, somewhat Japanese but not really so.

Foodie

?I am a foodie, especially Chinese foodie,? says George who travels all over Asia to sample Chinese dishes, learns how to cook them by gut feel, and brings home the whole idea to the Philippines for the epicurean pleasure of Chinese food lovers who patronize Modern China.

?What Modern China offers is an array of dishes representing the best of Canton, Beijing, Singapore, Hong Kong and other places where they have distinct way of cooking Chinese food,? George says.

?This is not fusion,? he clarifies. ?These are authentic dishes, and we chose them because they gratify the palate of our customers, not only the local Chinese and Filipinos, but also tourists who drop in from the nearby hotels.?

Live fish can be had at Modern China, its aquarium stationed right by the entrance to the kitchen, after a row of tiny dining kiosks for four to six persons.

Comfort dishes include Stewed Pork Knuckles, Chicken Lemon Sauce, and Assorted Meat Noodle. And there?s always House Special Fried Chicken.

?Surprise factor?, as George calls it, is what sets Modern China apart from other Chinese restaurants.

Call 0922-8770091.