RIO IN Brazil is famous for the samba orgy that is Mardi Gras. New Orleans, on the other hand, celebrates Fat Tuesday with much revelry and drinking.

Paoay, Ilocos Norte, in keeping with its deep Catholic roots, has a much more somber festivity called Guling Guling.

It is a day of dancing and drinking, too (of the native basi, made from sugarcane juice), with native rice cakes called dudol and impaltao (both are made with sugarcane juice and ground rice flour) prepared and consumed by the community.

Interestingly, the British call the day before Ash Wednesday Shrove Tuesday ? when they would clean up the flour and oil in their cupboards ? and make all the pancakes they can. It is the last day before the 40 days of fasting in Lent, hence people would use up the eggs and flour, cleaning up the larder, as well as cleaning up ?spiritually.?

In Ilocano, guling refers to the cross on the forehead of the inhabitants that is marked using white rice flour. The ritual marking, a prelude to the ashen cross made on Ash Wednesday, is an indication of cleansing in preparation for the coming Cuaresma.

Finery

Paoay being one of the centers of abel loom weaving, the Paoayenos don native costumes made from the handwoven fabric and dance to the tune of a graceful kumintang. All bring out their Sunday finery, with some of the older ladies showing off their gold tamburins and crosses.

This year, the town?s 31 villages were divided into 10 groups that danced through the streets, culminating with a ?showdown? in front of the picturesque San Agustin church, a Unesco Heritage Site.

While the town has become a bastion of the Philippine Independent Church (whose co-founder Bishop Gregorio Aglipay hails from Batac, next door to Paoay), it has retained this unique centuries-old Lenten tradition of ritual purification.

There are those who conjecture that there is probably a pagan underpinning to the practice, similar to Valentine?s Day; the tradition that places the birth of Jesus in late December, the darkest time of the year; and the timing for Easter right after the vernal equinox.

Even if it were so, this does not detract from the fervent faith of a simple people.

Long history

While Guling Guling has a long history, it is only recently that the citizens of Paoay have decided to highlight the practice through an annual festival, with food preparations, parades, street dancing, and fireworks.

Many people are still not aware of this quaint local festival, but the TV networks and other media have been increasing their coverage in recent years. It is hoped that a bigger mass audience would be able to experience this rich Ilocos tradition in the coming years.

With recent controversies centering on heritage sites in the province, the Guling Guling celebration this year is symbolic of the continuing commitment of provincial leaders, headed by Governor Michael M. Keon, to preserve and protect the rich traditions of Ilocos Norte.

The active participation of the citizens of Paoay, led by Mayor Bobby Clemente, together with municipal and barangay officials, likewise underlines the importance of both tangible and intangible cultural treasures in the life of communities.