AFTER 28 YEARS OF BEING a mainstay on Tomas Morato Avenue, Mario’s felt it was time to upgrade its image from just a fine dining restaurant with a limited old-fashioned menu to a more contemporary one, matching easy ambience with an expanded menu for a unique dining experience.

“We realized that to stay competitive, we need to bring Mario’s to the next level,” says Fil Benitez, one of Mario’s managing directors and son of founders Nenuca and the late Mario Benitez.

Mario’s changed its dark and somber, if not stuffy, air to a brighter, livelier and more contemporary design -- more open windows to let the sunlight in and to give a view of the garden. Benitez says, “We’ve redone the bar with a Zen look and our furniture restructured to blend with the light sage colors of the walls with pinewood wainscot, originally there since we opened here.”

Benitez likes to call the new look “Cordillera hip,” where he blended old Cordillera wood decor, baskets, bulols and vintage photos of Baguio in the 1920s -- all from the Benitez family’s private collection -- and Vigan-inspired flooring with modern art pieces of Jonathan Best and colorful linens.

“This gives the restaurant that modern feel, while retaining our Baguio roots,” adds Benitez.

The first Mario’s opened in Baguio City 37 years ago. It is now run by Benitez’s sister, Mitos Yñiguez.

Mario’s in QC can sit about 120, with cozy tables and chairs that are well-spaced for privacy. Mario’s has always been a preferred place for private, if not historic, meetings (former President Joseph Estrada, “Edsa Revolution” cast of characters, you name it) and romantic dates for celebrities who want to stay away from the public eye.

New house specials

After meticulous kitchen testings, Mario’s has come up with new house specials, while keeping its signature Caesar’s salad and tender steaks.

Among the additions is the melt-in-your-mouth Chilean Sea Bass, prepared in miso-mirin sauce and served with a refreshing mango-pineapple salsa and Japanese Maki on the side.

Espaguetis con Bacalao is an al dente pasta mixed with Bacalao a la Vizcaina in olive oil, while Baby Back Ribs comes with the very filling Boston-baked beans.

To give a little of everything, the Tuscany Platter serves a trio of grilled beef tenderloin, Cajun prawn and pan-fried fish fillet.

Of course, Mario’s retains its Old Casa Specials -- Barbecued Spareribs, Caesar Salad (the best in town), paella, lengua, callos and cochinillo (roast suckling pig).

“We continue to add innovative dishes in our House Specials, which we change every quarter,” says Benitez. “The same with our wine list, where we try to introduce new varietals in the market, both Old and New World varieties, every quarter.”

Mario’s keeps its popular items, such as Oysters Rockefeller (baked with spinach and hollandaise sauce), Tenderloin Steaks and US Black Angus Beef.

Nothing beats Mario’s sweet temptations -- canonigo, old-fashioned chocolate cake, toffee sansrival, and apple pie.

Weekly promo

On Sundays, Mario’s offers lunch buffet at P595+ for adults and P450 for kids seven years and below. The buffet spread includes salad, roast beef, cochinillo, turkey, oysters, sushi, pasta, paella, desserts and a chocolate fountain.

On Thursdays, it’s US Angus Prime Rib night with a bottle of red wine at 50 percent off, inclusive of Caesar Salad and desserts.

“We also serve breakfast daily from 7-10 AM except Saturdays. We have free wi-fi for those young politicians and businessmen who read their e-mail first thing in the morning or have online meetings,” Benitez says.

Mario’s Restaurant branches are at 191 Tomas Morato Avenue, QC, and 16 Upper Session Rd. Extension, Baguio City, tel. (074) 4424241.