THE PROSPECT OF BUFFET DINING AT Sofitel?s Spiral presents challenges best addressed with creative solutions.

Considering the spread and the capacity of the body to consume food, it seems reasonable to spend a weekend in the hotel by the Manila Bay. This way, one doesn?t worry about accessibility. One enjoys the ?out-of-town? feel, the pampering facilities and the degustation.

Two days without deadlines or appointments can make even an overcast day beautiful. Standing on the balcony of the suite, with an unhampered view of the water and the expanse of the sky, can change one?s perspective from being somber to believing the day would be just fine.

It begins to look even brighter as one surveys the counters laden with food. Different continents are represented in platters laden with textures and colors -- Indian, Japanese, Mediterranean and a considerable choice of Chinese fare.

Overview

A good way to navigate is to consider that there are three meals in a day and to plan the bill of fare for each dining.

On the far end is a stand of oysters from General Santos, and prawns, crab claws and mussels on ice. Across are appetizers from the Orient and the Middle East, with dates and apricots constantly replenished by an attentive staff.

Cheeses include Crotin de Chavignol, Gorgonzola, Tome de Saviore, Brie Bridel, Emmental, Parmesan Cheese Wheel, Gauda, Rebochon, and a true cheese lover?s delight, the Boursin Poivre in a foil wrap. Interesting combinations alongside are pears with cheese and beet root salad with mangoes.

Following the contour of the counter, plates of dried and cured meats, terrines and tapenades share billing with stuffed olives, capers and pickled greens. It winds toward the little rolls of sourdough and brown breads with nuts and some Italian fare, then the cauldrons of soup.

At the end of the line is a large chunk of meat suspended vertically on a skewer. Moist slivers are expertly sliced and stuffed into a pocket of thin bread with tomatoes and onions to make a respectable shawarma.

Immediately across are sushis and sukiyaki, miso and lentil soups. A chef prepares tempura in an open kitchen behind the counter, rolling tiger prawns in a batter, dropping the mixture into a pan of boiling oil, deftly rolling it with a pair of chopsticks and retrieving the decapod after it had turned a light-gold color. Dipped into a shallow dish of tentsuyu, it?s crisp at first bite, yet airy and savory.

There are curries and tandoor, palak paneer, chicken tikka masala and jeera, and onion pulao. A smokeless grill cooks a steady supply of fresh prawns, lamb, tenderloin and salmon.

Diners have the option to steam the bounty of the sea, selecting from different fish like baby red snapper, tilapia and maya-maya fillet. For carnivores, a prime rib carving sits under a bright light, the pink of the meat moist with its own juice. Sidings offered are Pomme a la Bretone and ?mimosa-style? asparagus.

Popular choices

Chinese cuisine is the most patronized, and occupies a large section. Among the appetizers are crispy duck, cold chicken with Szechuan sauce and sweet dumplings.

A steaming pot holds the boiling water where noodles are submerged before being ladled into bowls.

There are Hong Kong-style dim sum and Sui Kau dim sum in steamers. Staples include Peking duck and fish maw with chicken soup.

Among the other oriental offerings are Denjang Chigae or Korean miso soup with vegetables and tofu, Daktaritan or Korean chicken stew, and Beef and Shrimp Bulgogi.

Best seats

Once seated, you face the challenge of optimum savoring of the food. Plying portions of everything on a platter will have sauces and flavors running into each other.

Tomato-based pasta and Korean beef stew may not be the best combinations on the plate or the palate. Focus on two or three different cuisines to better enjoy the dining experience.

This exercise is not for the indecisive. It will take nerves of steel to stay the course. Observing the weekend diners, for example, one can see a good number not just crossing continents but courses from dessert to main entrees.

In the end, no matter how the buffet is approached -- systematically or through a random yielding to cravings -- what will matter is the satisfaction of having enjoyed a very good meal. And you will have that at Sofitel Spiral?s impressive buffet.