SO YOU?VE heard about the strange landscape and unusual tiny animals. But after making up your mind to see the Chocolate Hills and the cute tarsiers, what else will you do in Bohol?

Many new properties have opened their doors in Bohol as the tourism industry has boomed. At the time of the Met Museum?s big exhibit on the art of the island province in 2003, there were only about 90,000 arrivals each year. This has since shot up to about 600,000 visitors annually.

Clearly things are looking bright. Of course, such numbers are still way behind those of Bali, which last year was visited by more than a million happy souls.

If it?s your first time, you may want to know that Bohol is an island of a thousand square miles. Its capital city (where the airport is located) is Tagbilaran. Just across the water from Tagbilaran is the smaller island of Panglao, connected to Bohol by two short bridges.

Panglao is where most of the best properties are located. There is another cluster of resorts farther away in the Anda Peninsula. I must admit, though, that when I drove out there the only site I was interested in was Anda church with its exquisite ceiling paintings.

Fabulous Eskaya

The Bohol resort on everyone?s lips these days is Eskaya, designed by no less than National Artist for Architecture nominee Francisco Mañosa. He brings to the place his love of things Filipino, as seen in his work for Amanpulo.

What I cannot forget about Eskaya is the view of the liquid expanse of its fabulous infinity pool set against the sapphire seas of Bohol.

Entering the villas, I was very happy to see that local raffia weavings (from Tubigon) had been used to great effect, and that the furnishings reflected the style of the island. If you want luxury, Eskaya is the place to go. It is probably the most pricey establishment in Bohol and the perfect place for celebrities nursing broken hearts!

Another new resort is Amorita. Set on a bluff with a broad view of the surrounding waters, it also overlooks the white sands of Alona Beach. You can contemplate the waves from the spectacularly sited swimming pool or from the comfort of your villa, which comes with its own plunge pool.

The villa interiors are tastefully appointed; there is even an outdoor shower for the more adventurous. The grounds have an echo of Bali. Again, the challenge here is to define a more recognizable local style and to learn from Bali?s experience with sustainable tourism issues.

Rizal admirer

For a different experience, try another addition to the province?s collection of luxury establishments: Peacock Garden. This is run by German Rizaliana collector Hans Schoof and his Boholana wife Lani. Yes, that?s right, Schoof is a German who loves Rizal.

Once, when I had the good fortune of visiting Heidelberg, I sent a text message to a friend in the Philippines explaining that I was retracing the footsteps of our National Hero. My friend replied with amusement that I needn?t have gone all the way to Europe to relive Rizal?s sojourn in Germany. It turns out she was at Peacock Garden in Baclayon, surrounded by Schoof?s amazing collection.

Beyond the Rizaliana in the lobby, the place has a splendid pool set on a cliff, and plush rooms with Continental flavor. The Continental connection is continued in the cuisine, which is excellent.

Speaking of beaches, the finest beach in Panglao is probably that of Bohol Beach Club, the pioneer among the big resorts on the island. This is where many conventions are held.

Another superb pick for conventions is Panglao Island Nature Resort?one of the most picturesque settings in the province and the most beautifully landscaped grounds. There is an amazing auditorium where huge concerts are held. Recently, it opened a pleasant spa, Mithi.

Also in Panglao is Flushing Meadows, owned by a tennis enthusiast. For longer stays, one can opt for Sun Apartelles, which rents out furnished apartments with kitchenettes. A unique feature of Sun Apartelles is its swimming pool, set in deep canyon.

Favorite place

Hands down, my favorite high-end place is Amarela. The name takes after the Spanish word for yellow, a color splashed all over the resort?s walls. The rooms are subtly luxurious. Everywhere there is the mellow comfort of antique wood and the warm embrace of soft white blankets.

The owners, lawyer Doy Nunag and his family, have an eye for detail. A collection of some of the best examples of traditional Bohol art adds layers of texture to what is already a rich experience. The bedside lamps are woven with rattan, the water jugs set in a case of nito. Even the ceiling lights have a star-like wooden border.

This is definitely the place where the quiet beauty of Bohol comes alive. A new art gallery has the works of budding Boholano artists.

Even better, the staff members are attentive and professional. I once listened as a friend made arrangements for a party of 18 celebrities who all had elaborate specifications. The front-desk officers handled the whole affair efficiently and graciously. I would have given up in three seconds!

Breakfast at Amarela is delicious, especially the homemade longganisa.

But if it?s a hearty meal one is seeking, just nearby is Bohol Bee Farm?another favorite. Much of the farm?s charm has to do with its owner, Vicky Wallace, a paragon of enterprise and creativity.

The Bee Farm specializes in colorful salads and delectable pasta. There are also drinks sweetened with honey to savor. The bakery shop stocks fresh camote bread and all kinds of spreads. Come here for organic food and for a fascinating array of souvenirs woven from different fibers.

Exceptional food

Other resorts with exceptional food are Alona Palm and Ananiana. Alona Palm has gorgeous villas, while Ananiana is known for its stylish interiors.

For a long lazy lunch or intimate dinner, try out Café Lawis in the church complex of the Assumption Parish in Dauis. This establishment was set up by Fr. Val Pinlac and Bea Zobel Jr., with the local community and the Diocese of Tagbilaran, as the initial phase of a broader program for sustainable tourism and poverty alleviation.

A store carries some of the best-designed items in Bohol. Don?t miss the pieces by the town?s traditional jewelers. A special guided tour of the complex will soon be launched. Bea, with her partner Joel Uichico, is also involved in the planning of community tours in Baclayon. The tours will offer choices such as hiking in the hills, heritage walks and sea adventures, all supported by the town?s mayor, Alvin Uy, and the board of municipal councilors as well as NGOs like the Bahandi.

Speaking of churches, Bohol boasts some of the most beautiful temples from the Spanish colonial period. In the 1920s, many church ceilings were painted by artists from Cebu. These are miraculously preserved and definitely worth seeing.

If you have time for only a few, I suggest you see Baclayon, Loboc, Maribojoc and Dauis. The first three have fascinating museums full of curiosities. These are not too far from Tagbilaran. If you have time for one further afield, go and see Loon, easily the most monumental of Bohol?s ecclesiastical structures.

What to buy? Top picks would be ube jam and broas from Baclayon, Vicky?s camote bread from the Bee farm and red rice from Tagbilaran market.

And how to carry this back home? Easy. Buy a wonderful picnic basket available in most ?native goods? shops in the capital city. Throw your purchases inside, tie the basket up and check it in at the airport.

River cruises

A crowd-drawer in Bohol is the Loboc river cruise. You have the choice of joining a standard cruise or booking a boat of your own. Some of my friends prefer to hire their own vessel and sail down river rather than toward the falls. Upstream there are now rafts, set up with assistance from the town?s mayor, Leon Calipusan, where the local people sing and dance for boatloads of tourists.

Loboc is famous for its musical traditions. The world-famous Children?s Choir conducted by Alma Taldo, with the assistance of Lina Jala, gives concerts on most Saturday afternoons, while Sundays will find the town?s band practicing at the plaza.

Building on Loboc?s success, the town of Loay now operates cruises at the mouth of the same river. Not far from where the boats dock is the Clarin Ancestral House, the only ancestral house regularly open to the public. There is also a café on the premises.

Bohol has much more to offer. Perhaps its real asset is the fact that it still abounds in pristine places, verdant forests, caves to explore, sleepy towns with quaint streets and houses.

A friend summed it up nicely for me: Go to Bohol for a peaceful vacation. The Boholanos are so soft-spoken, yet they are the most devoted of hosts.