IT MAY BE a cliché, but passionate scuba divers will never stop telling you: the Philippines is one of the best places in the world to dive.
Even those of us who have had the chance to dive in different countries will always come back to our favorites in our blessed archipelago. So now that the weather is perfect, sign up for a course and get into the water. There are few better places in the world to do it.
Tubbataha, Sulu Sea
The Everest of Philippine diving in every way, from cost and distance to the unparalleled diving experience itself.
The Tubbataha Reefs, 182 km southwest of Puerto Princesa, Palawan, and the neighboring Jessie Beazley Reef, make up the Tubbataha Reef National Marine Park, a Unesco World Heritage site. It?s for experienced divers, as the currents can be treacherous, but the rewards are great?everything from white and black tip reef sharks by the dozen, to whale sharks, mantas and hammerheads. On my last trip, a scalloped hammerhead came within six feet of me, probably wondering why I looked funny.
Tubbataha is accessible only by live-aboard dive boats in the Philippine summer; any other time, the waters of the Sulu Sea are too rough. It?s an overnight trip from Puerto Princesa to the site for a week of diving in over 10,000 ha of reefs that are home to half of the coral species on earth, some 500 species of fish, 11 kinds of sharks and more.
Book early, and get ready to spend. But it?s worth every peso.
Apo Reef, Sablayan, Occidental Mindoro
Tubbataha on a more modest scale. The Apo Reef Natural Park is a 27,469 ha natural marine park between Mindoro and Palawan, home to the world?s second largest continuous coral reef, and the largest atoll in the Philippines.
Clear water, corals, colorful fish cascading like confetti, schools of jacks, mammoth tuna, manta rays and in cooler weather, the famed Apo hammerheads, are just some of the enticements. Again, it?s accessible only by boat, most of them fully equipped, big bancas from Mindoro resorts some four hours away.
Book with resorts like Apo Reef Club and Pandan Island to get both a banca adventure and downtime in a resort.
Puerto Galera, Mindoro
Accessible and fabulous. Only 150 km from Manila, Puerto Galera has a bit of diving for everyone, from shallow dives in grassy expanses for photographers as well as new divers, to ripping currents in sites like the famous Canyons and the nearby Shark Cave, where there?s bound to be a sleeping white tip inside and schooling fish everywhere.
Also worth visiting are a number of small wrecks and notable sites in nearby Verde Island, including the challenging Washing Machine. Choose from a variety of resorts, and enjoy good massages and the fun night life, if that?s your thing.
Coron, Palawan
The top attraction here: several World War II wrecks, Japanese supply ships sunk by American forces in the battle of Coron Bay. They?re big, mysterious, occasionally murky, and fascinating to explore, but some degree of experience is required so you don?t silt up the entire dive.
All wrecks are accessible by banca from Coron resorts in a wide range of budgets. Make sure you visit the beautiful Barracuda Lake, where you negotiate a challenging climb before plunging into warm water (and yes, there?s a resident barracuda), and the stunning Gunter?s Cathedral, a chamber with a skylight that only God could have carved out of the rock.
Apo Island, off Dumaguete
A successfully managed marine reserve that?s the laboratory of the nearby Silliman University and a hotbed for marine biology education, Apo is another haven of speedy currents and dense fish life. Gloves are not allowed, so some degree of good buoyancy control is necessary. There?s fun shallow diving as well as trips into the depths in spots such as Mamsa Point and Coconut Point.
Camiguin Island, Mindanao
Another unique dive site, because the volcanic soil has produced a number of hot spring vents bubbling from the ocean floor, bearing warm currents and nutrients. The result: some surreal visibility, rich fish populations and mutant dendronephthya corals that grow bigger than people, in exquisite pastel shades. Very, very pretty. And there are fun things to do on land, as well.
Malapascua Island, Cebu
Home of the thresher shark, a rare and magnificent species of sharks that congregate in a cleaning station in the early morning to get their teeth groomed by small parasite fish. It?s a sight to behold, indeed. In some seasons, the same cleaning station plays host to huge manta rays, also there for some beautifying.
It?s a bit of a way from Cebu to Malapascua, but it?s one of the country?s most unique dives. Plus, take a side trip to the large wreck of the MV Doña Marilyn. Resorts abound on the island, with some great food.
Anilao, Batangas
The new scuba diver?s first classroom is also one of the country?s most dependable sites, only two hours from Manila. There?s a wide range of resorts with good food, accessible via excellent roads, with some of the most colorful diving this side of the archipelago.
Expect lots of fish, occasional sightings of turtles, sharks, barracuda, lovely soft coral and tiny, colorful critters, such as the shy pygmy seahorse, that draw photographers from all over the world.
Donsol, Sorsogon
One site where you don?t need scuba gear. Any ocean-loving Filipino who hasn?t swum with those humongous, gentle national treasures, the beautiful whale sharks of Donsol, should be ashamed of himself!