MANILA, Philippines ? Whenever we ordered salt and pepper squid in a Chinese restaurant, everyone digs in hungrily as soon as the platter is served on the table. The crisp coating, the slightly salty, mildly spicy flavor, and the tender texture of the squid, all combine to make this dish irresistible.

Here?s my kitchen-tested recreation of the dish. The use of egg whites (instead of whole eggs) makes the coating light and crunchy.

Salt and Pepper Squid

(3-4 servings)

? k squid
Salt and pepper
2 egg whites
1 c flour
1 c cooking oil

Clean squid: Remove heads and tentacles. Squeeze off the black ink from the squid and discard ink (or reserve for another use). Peel off the purple skin from the squid.

Cut open each squid. Cut each squid into three. Wipe dry with paper towels.

With a sharp knife, scour the inner surface of each squid with crisscross patterns. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

Beat egg whites until foamy. Spread the flour on a plate lined with waxed paper. Heat oil in a wok or skillet.

Dip each squid into egg whites then dredge lightly with flour. Fry in hot oil until a light golden yellow. Remove from wok or skillet and transfer to a platter lined with paper towels so excess oil gets absorbed.

When all the squid pieces have been fried, arrange on a serving platter and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve with desired sauce (chili sauce, vinegar dip, ketchup, etc.).

Cook?s tips:

Do not overcook the squid so it doesn?t get tough. It takes less than one minute to cook the squid through.

Make sure the oil is very hot before putting in the squid.

Do not season the cooked squid too heavily with salt and pepper. Despite its name, the dish doesn?t have to be too salty or too peppery. Season prudently then put salt and pepper shakers on the table for those who want additional seasoning.