MANILA, Philippines ? Noodles have a variety of functions: To the superstitious, they prolong a birthday celebrant?s life. In lauriats, they are the last dish served to ensure the diners? satisfaction.

There are various kinds of pancit: Aling Tonang?s of Boni Avenue specializes in pancit luglog or palabok. Ang Tunay na Pansit Malabon specializes in exactly that, pancit Malabon. There?s pancit puti in Makati and the pancit habhab of Lucena.

Whenever I visit my dad in Lipa, I make it a point to visit Three Kids, a small carinderia-type eatery in front of the old city hall, which has created one of the most outstanding pancit I have ever tasted:

Pancit Langlang combines canton, bihon, lomi and sotanghon, all blended in what tastes like an adobo garlic sauce, topped with spring onions, adobo flakes and chicharon. It?s a dry and sticky concoction that will easily outshine many other pancit. This dish has to be ordered in advance -- call at least 30 minutes before you dine. It?s perfect for merienda because, somehow, when it?s served with other dishes, I don?t appreciate it so much. It has to be served on its own.

Lipa has many interesting items: I love its suman latik and goto. There?s a bakery that starts baking in the wee hours of the morning. From its pugon comes a fantastic pandesal?tiny, crusty bread buns with a moist interior.

Recently, I also discovered a freshly cooked bibingkang galapong near the jeepney station right across the hospital. Delicious! If you?re in the vicinity, check out Three Kids. Call 043 312-6766.

Happy eating!

E-mail sandydaza@shaw.ca.