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Dumplings in Dong Bei are made by hand, open for the customers to see. JAYMEE T. GAMIL




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Glorious food in Chinatown

By Jaymee T. Gamil
Philippine Daily Inquirer
First Posted 22:58:00 06/24/2009

Filed Under: Food, Restaurants & catering

MANILA, Philippines ? The local tourism industry is taking our foodie culture into greater consideration with the recent launch of a program meant to highlight the metropolis? overlooked attractions? among them, the culinary sights and sensations of Chinatown in Binondo.

The Philippine Tour Operators Association (Philtoa) and the Department of Tourism?s new pool of international-caliber Mabuhay tourist guides recently gave members of the press a taste of these overlooked attractions, which will be included in tour packages to be offered at Philtoa?s 20th Philippine Travel Mart (PTM) September 4-6 at SM Megatrade Hall.

One particular package seeks to reintroduce Metro Manila?s main waterway, the Pasig River, as a tourism lifeline. An informational cruise along the Pasig takes tourists tiangge-shopping in Guadalupe, Makati, visiting heritage sites in Sta. Ana, strolling through historic Intramuros and snacking in Binondo?s Chinatown in Old Manila.

Open secret

For brunch, Mabuhay guide Charisse Aquino-Tugade brought the press to the New Pou Heng House, deep within the pink Art-Deco Uy Su Bin building on Quintin Paredes Street.

Despite being hidden from the street, and having only a modest layout?carinderia-style counter and tables, next to a small courtyard with an old fountain?the resto enjoys a steady stream of patrons due to its solid reputation for fresh peanut-sauce lumpia (spring rolls).

The lumpia bursts with a mix of seaweed, vegetables, meat and a bit of brown sugar, giving it a predominantly sweet taste. Full of ingredients, this lumpia is the size of a small fist, rather than the more common finger-sized variety.

Another open secret is the four-table dumpling house Dong Bei (?Northeast?) behind Binondo church, near Ongpin Street.

True to its name, it serves Taiwanese or North China-style dumplings, as opposed to the more common Southern or Cantonese fare. The small eatery is run by a Chinese-speaking couple relatively new to Binondo.

The dumplings are made fresh, by hand, open for the customers to see, and are boiled instead of steamed. Dong Bei is gaining a cult following for its succulent meat, seafood and veggie dumplings (kuchay or chives dumplings) and Chinese pancakes, all at cheap prices.

On Ongpin Street is Café Mezzanine, the proceeds of which go to the volunteer firemen of Binondo. As a café, it is known for its iced coffee. As a restaurant, it also serves a mean kiampung (sticky brown rice with peanuts) and other Chinese dishes.

Café Mezzanine is located on the second floor of one of many Eng Bee Tin stores, which is no surprise, because both are managed by Gerry Chua, father of the ube-flavored hopia.

Due to his hopia?s success, Chua has taken to infusing ube into other Chinese delicacies such as tikoy (glutinous rice cakes) and mooncakes. He has also taken purple as his official color, even donating the famed purple fire trucks usually seen parked outside Binondo church. And he has set up a new restaurant dedicated to his devotion to purple yam?aptly called Mr. Ube.

Most of Chinatown?s best culinary treasures are laid out on the streets. Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz, like most parks in the Philippines, is a mecca for favorite street food like taho, ?dirty ice cream? and mani (peanuts).

Carvajal Street is a narrow market of fresh fruits, vegetables, seafood, and hole-in-the-wall eateries, including the pancit malabon stall tried by celeb chef Anthony Bourdain for his TV show ?No Reservations.?

Ongpin, meanwhile, is still the place to go to for traditional Chinese herbal and organic medicines and ingredients like ginseng and even dried tuko. Chinese pharmacists have now also taken to selling them in pill form to keep up with modern times.

Enriching the mind

?Some seafood sold on Binondo sidewalks cost only around P300 a kilo. In other countries, it goes for around P3,000. We really need to appreciate what we have,? Aquino-Tugade said.

A tour through Chinatown enriches the mind as much as it fills the stomach. Aquino-Tugade was quick to point out the quirky but seamless marriage of Filipino and Chinese cultures that have existed for centuries.

It?s in the small details. Binondo-born St. Lorenzo Ruiz had Chinese blood. There are incense sticks lit at the Sto. Cristo de Longos street altar. There?s also the Filipino?s penchant for sweet-and-sour flavors infused in kiamoy, champoy (dried and wet tamarind balls), and other Chinese-created candied fruits.

This rich heritage exists in other spots in Metro Manila. Philtoa president Cesar Cruz cited the tourism potential of commercial centers on the Pasig River route such as Fort Bonifacio in Taguig, the Bay Area in Manila and Ortigas Center.

The PTM is the brainchild of Philtoa, which brings together the tourism, travel and trade industries in one expo. The event will offer discounted travel packages and exhibits. Last year, the exhibit attracted some 32,000 visitors and around P83 million in revenues, said PTM secretary-general Margie Munsayac.

For more information on PTM, call Philtoa at 8124513.



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