I GREW up exposed to good French cuisine. At first, I didn’t know any better—to my young and inexperienced palate, it was just good food. My mom opened Manila’s first French restaurant, Au Bon Vivant, on L. Guerrero Street, Ermita. It had a cranky chef who didn’t allow us kids to step into his kitchen.

It was only in my teenage years when I realized we had a popular restaurant. So began my adventures in French cooking.

Quality

Some of the dishes I enjoyed at the restaurant were the chateaubriand bearnaise, spinach cheese soufflé, almond mousse and pate foie gras. I didn’t realize the quality of the béarnaise sauce until I roamed the streets of Paris to look for something close to it. The only one that reminded me of that quality was from a fine dining restaurant called Chez Laserre.

From a supplier called Petit Quenault, I ordered the ingredients that made the difference. I also ordered cans of pate foie gras with a black truffle in the middle. The taste of the pate was superb. I love foie gras. Whenever I’m asked what is the best-tasting food in the world, without thinking, I blurt out: “Pan-fried foie gras or goose liver!” Not all chefs prepare it well, however.

A few years ago, Prince Albert (at the Intercontinental Hotel) had a foie gras festival, with goose liver as the center of attention. It was one of the most fascinating festivals I’ve ever attended. But, I have not experienced it since.

Event

So, when I heard that the chef who spearheaded that event had put up his own restaurant, CiCou, in Makati, I was excited. If you want authentic French cuisine and the best-tasting foie gras in the metropolis, you must visit this place or call to have the foie gras prepared.

There are many dishes in the menu containing this delicacy. I tried the rib-eye and lamb shank, which were delicious. Other dishes worth trying: Coquillettes, cassoulets, duck al orange, beef oxtail, rack of lamb and Chilean sea bass.

The French chef, Cyrill Soenen, is soft-spoken, kind, helpful, and brims with culinary talent. He is assisted by his lovely wife, Anna. CiCou (pronounced see sue) is located at Hotel Celeste by the entrance of San Lorenzo Village, Makati. Call 889-6728, 889-6733 or 0917 885-8841. Happy eating!

E-mail sandydaza@shaw.ca