GET a woman to bike around Manila in cycling getup of padded Lycra shorts and jersey/sleeveless top, and she?ll probably run into malicious catcalls.

Have that same woman bike around picturesque Batanes, and she?ll see people smile, tip their hats, and say: ?Good morning, ma?am.?

Who said Batanes was backward?

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The smallest province in the country, Batanes is a cluster of 11 islands. Batan, where the capital town Basco is, is one of three inhabited islands. Sabtang and Itabayat are the other two. The eight other islands are either pastureland for cows or stopovers of fishing boats from long journeys.

If exploring a territory on foot is time-consuming, the next best thing is to travel around in a bicycle. It?s economical, eco-friendly and a great way to get to know the locals. The visitor will also take in the sights -- and the crisp clean air -- a little more deeply.

Bike rental is cheap at P25/hour. If you?re lucky, someone will lend you theirs -- in Batanes cycling is not a sport. It is a part of life.

You can bring your bike, if you prefer the comfort of your nine-speed wheels and super-cushioned seats. But the bike rentals are decent -- they?re not single-speeds, God forbid -- and, more importantly, the brakes work.

Bottom line: Trust the Ivatans to know their bikes. (For safety, bring your helmets. Rentals don?t have them.)

Finding a bike tour guide is a bit of a challenge as there are only two in the province. No worries, though. In a province with a total land mass only a third of Metro Manila, you?ll never lose your way. Practically all roads will get you back to your original location.

And didn?t we say the locals are so friendly and willing to help you, they would even offer you snacks and water?

While the terrain is not quads-burning and heart-racing like those in Baguio, Sagada or Sierra Madre, note that Batanes is only six-percent flatland. The rest of the landscape is rugged with steep hills and mountains. Many roads --not all -- are manageable uphill and slope gently so they don?t demand extreme fitness from bikers. Ride at your own pace and you?ll be fine.

Four seasons

Weather guide: So much has been written about the Batanes weather that its ?fame? has preceded the province. Batanes is closer to Taiwan (190 kilometers north) than it is to Luzon (280 km south). The province follows the western hemisphere?s four seasons (there is no snowfall, sorry to disappoint you), with an average temperature of 26?C.

The best season to bike depends on your preference and skills. A mountain bike is ideal since you will most likely encounter trails and rough roads. There are small stores and food vendors, but (gasp!) they close at lunchtime and open only after siesta. So always remember to bring plenty of liquids and energy food.