I AM writing from my hotel of choice in Davao, the Marco Polo.

I am here for the Mindanao Culinary Festival, which was, again, a resounding success. I am also here for my “heritage” tour of Mindanao.

The diversity of Davao cuisine is unbelievable. This is where I can grab a bite of the perfect “sugba,” walk around the corner to have my fill of durian and walk back to the hotel to dine at Lotus Court with its exquisite Xiamen offerings such as stir-fried misua noodles (I love the feel of the noodles in my mouth, a main dish on its own, with so much meat and shrimps) and braised squid with brown sauce (cooked to perfection; very tender).

Cap that off with Green Tea Pancake – thick crepes brushed with green tea syrup sprinkled with sugar and nuts, and rolled with papaya. Sounds strange? On the contrary, a bite of the Green Tea Pancake is a perfumed, refreshing mouthful.

I asked long-time friend, Art Boncato, the hotel’s executive assistant manager, about their Xiamen dishes.

He said that according to Xiamen chefs Story Sun Lei and John Ye Zen Ting who were in town to train their counterparts: “It (Xiamen cuisine) is one of the eight most famous cuisines of China. It has its own character and it is famous for its seafood.”

A dish that best describes the complexity of Xiamen cuisine is Wall-Jump Buddha, a traditional Xiamen dish prepared with over 30 ingredients: shark’s fin, sea cucumber, chicken breast, pig’s trotters, abalone, mushrooms and pigeon eggs are but a few. They are carefully selected and skillfully cut.

“The cooking process is very strict. The ingredients and condiments are first put into a Shaoxing wine jar, its mouth sealed once the lid is put on. The jar is boiled and then stewed. The ingredients and condiments are then mixed to form a special flavor, each retaining part of its fragrance.”

Aside from Lotus Court, Davao has the outstanding Ah Fat Chinese restaurant.

Rajo Laurel claims Ah Fat is his favorite, raving in fact about the restaurant’s “pigik” (a kind of fish they steam and serve with its roe which they fry before incorporating it into the dish) and the “kepay” (shellfish steamed with garlic).

He is so in love with Ah Fat that he even knows exactly on which day a type of seafood is delivered. Ah Fat is a must! (tel. 082-2255787/ 2262688).

I have compiled some recipes of Davao’s most delicious offerings: Lotus Court’s Xiamen noodles and the “sugbanok” of BB Barbecue Atbp.

Xiamen noodles

250 g “misua” noodles
10 g sliced shrimps and pork
5 g sliced black mushrooms
10 g “pechay,” carrots, leeks
2 tsp oyster sauce
1 tsp chicken powder
1 tsp white sugar
2 tsp mushroom soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
Deep-fry “misua” noodles.

After deep-frying, boil in hot water for 3 minutes.
Heat a wok, add a bit of oil and add the rest of the ingredients, except soy sauce and sesame oil.
Mix well.
Add soy sauce and sesame oil.
Mix and serve immediately.

BB’s ‘sugbanok’

I’d like to thank Gene Bangayan who unselfishly shared the recipe, the tips and how to make “sinamak,” the perfect dip for “sugbanok.”

“Sugba” is Dabawenyo for “inihaw” or grill.
“Sugbanok” is the acronym for “sinugbang manok.”
Use free-range chicken or “manok Bisaya.”
Do not use frozen chicken.
Grill only over charcoal.

Recipe:
1 whole native chicken, fresh and dressed
Marinate for 30 minutes to 1hour in mixture of:
1 c cooking oil
½ c soy sauce
4 cloves garlic, crushed
“Sugba” (or grill) on top of charcoal griller using leftover marinade for basting, and serve immediately.

Recipe for “sinamak”: Cane vinegar or coconut vinegar (“sukang tuba”)
Add ginger, shallots, garlic, black peppercorn, sugar and salt.
Keep for a few days to one week before serving (BB Barbecue Atbp, tel. 082-2221929).

Other discoveries

Marco Polo’s Lazuli Spa is tagged as one of the best spas in the Philippines. In Davao, there are only two, the one at Pearl Farm and Lazuli. The hotel’s newly opened rooms at the cabana view deck and terrace are nice and comfortable (Marco Polo Hotel, tel. 082-2210888).

I swear I can finish one whole Jic n’ Jacs Durian Cake. It is a light, soft and moist durian sponge, layered with rich durian butter icing. Owner Jennifer Tan is the Juda Liu of Davao. Sinfully addicting! Jennifer can find a way to get her durian cake to you (0918-9221709).

If you like “lechon” and chili, try Spicy Lechon of Beko’s Biik. It is “lechon de leche,” stuffed with tons of chili. It is seasoned to perfection with a bite and kick that you will never forget. Great with “suka” or calamansi. This “lechon” is not for the faint-hearted (0922-8381600).

Davao is truly where there is a bit of everything for everyone. Talagang wow ang Davao! Wow ang Mindanao!

E-mail the author at raspiras@inquirer.com.ph.