MANILA, Philippines - ?Alfred?s taking me to Aubergine,? Angela gushed excitedly. ?Oooh, sounds fancy,? I said, sharing her excitement for their Valentine?s date.

Aubergine... aw-ber-jeen... the name of the restaurant alone sounded expensive. It cracked me up to find out later, after a bill of over P3,000, that all it translates to is... talong! I thought ?aubergine? means ?elegant? or ?wealthy? or ?sumptuous? or some such adjective. Actually, it?s French for nothing fancier than the good ol? eggplant!

But don?t be deceived by its humble etymology. Remember that at this restaurant, the humble talong has gone French and, short of wearing Chanel, reeks of chic. With drapes flowing in hues of violet and chairs swathed in matching shades of rose, the eggplant inspiration is evident as you walk through its doors. Here, eggplant leaves its pedestrian association and symbols outside the door and comes through in a shade reminiscent of royalty, a characteristic followed through by the Sambonet utensils, attentive service, and an excellently executed menu.

The menu is French Continental, although neither the executive chef, Stefan Langenhan, nor the owners, Hansjorg Schallenberg and Norbert Gandler, are French. ?When you look at the history of haute cuisine, it always goes back to French cooking,? Schallenberg revealed, when I chanced upon him once at lunch and asked why they chose to go French.

Indeed, the restaurant takes pains to remain true to classical French dishes that are presented on the menu. Enjoying a duck confit, I was surprised when the waiter approached to ask if I found it salty. Cornered, I answered an honest yes, as the saltiness of the duck becomes evident when you get past the sinfully delicious skin and dig into the duck meat. ?It is really bound to be salty,? Perry the captain/waiter explained, ?because the duck is cured in salt. Some guests do not appreciate it, so we take the initiative to inquire into your experience.?

The experience is nevertheless wonderful. Admittedly, I could not finish the confit, even if the saltiness was tempered by the baby potatoes on the side. But the first few bites are amazing, the skin crisp and the fat underneath so delicate and soft, and oh so refined too (compared to other executions of duck where you just know your nape will start hurting in a bit).

?How is everything, ladies?? Schallenberg asked as he passed our table. ?Very good,? my sister and I replied sincerely. ?So I keep the chef?? he joked. I remember this line on another visit, as I appreciate their Business Lunch Menu of Oven-Roasted U.S. Chuck Bistro Beef Fillet, and think, ?You can give him a raise!? Because the meat is remarkably tender and so full of flavor. And it is so deceptively light that I would even recommend it to skimpily-clad ladies on their Valentine?s date (no need to fear that post-dinner bulge!).

Wine is recommended, an extensive list presented to each guest. I note the floor to ceiling wine cellar that divides the room with the restaurant?s collection of Old World and New World wines. ?Is there a sommelier?? I inquired. (Could there finally be a restaurant in Manila with a trained and experienced sommelier?) In fact, the restaurant employs one for dinner, and when he is not around, the head waiters or captains, as they are called, have also been trained to give recommendations. ?Red is usually paired with meats but for your duck, may I recommend the Nederburg, a South African Sauvignon Blanc?? the waiter offered. It was a pleasant nudge although not necessarily the best pairing.

Aubergine was conceived as a venue for the students of the International School for Culinary and Hotel Management (ISCAHM), also of the dynamic Schallenberg-Gandler duo, to practice their classroom skills in real world terms. In fact, the glass window that allows diners to peer into the restaurant?s kitchen will often reveal a couple of interns practicing their recently acquired skills. The chefs and cooks of the restaurant are all professionals, however, unlike Restaurant 101 of Enderun, another culinary/hospitality management school. At Aubergine, the kitchen staff are no longer students and have a few, if not a lot, of years of experience behind them.

And it shows. Appetizers are delicately crafted. The Business Lunch salad of prawns with mango and avocado is presented in a little tower that allows each ingredient to make a statement. The platter called Salmon Delight showcases how the kitchen encourages restrained indulgence, with the selection of gravlax, smoked salmon and salmon confit presented for tiny bites, but with each bite to be savored resolutely.

Entrees are products of succinct executions while desserts are given awesome twists. A warm chocolate cake would be hard-pressed to compete against that of Bistro Filipino, but the raspberry ice cream that is served with Aubergine?s warm chocolate makes the dessert all the warmer, all the lovelier, another to-die-for dessert in the Metro.

Would I fall in love on a date at Aubergine, say on Valentine?s Day? Fools would rush in (and at least get the emotional ROI on the expensive dining experience, ha-ha!). As for the rest?we just might fall in love with this darling of a ta-long.

Aubergine. 2/F. 32nd and 5th Bldg., Fort Bonifacio, Taguig. 856-9888. www.aubergine.ph.

Smart casual. Major credit cards accepted. Wheelchair access via the elevator.