MANILA, Philippines - There seems to be two types of brides.
There’s the bride who knows exactly what she wants, and has been dreaming of her wedding dress since she was 9. For her, 70 percent of the wedding is all about the dress.
Then there’s the bride who probably has no idea what she wants, but knows exactly what she doesn’t want. Although she can’t tell the difference between taffeta and tulle, or ecru and eggshell, she knows she doesn’t want sleeves and a train.
Both are fixated on finding that perfect wedding gown, and thanks to the world wide web, finding it may just be so many clicks away. There are websites that let you fill in the specifics (sleeveless? A-line? satin or lace?) and voila! You can scroll down your choices. For the budget conscious, there’s even eBay to the rescue. A friend found a Vera Wang dress online with a starting bid below $100, “in good condition except for several stains in the underarm area.” Well, caveat emptor!
Fortunately in Manila, we have the luxury of having our gowns made to order rather than buying one off the rack or online. There’s always a designer or costurera out there to fit every style and budget. You just have to remember a few things when you want your gown bespoke: ask around if the designer or dressmaker has a good track record of meeting deadlines. You certainly don’t want your groom to grow cobwebs waiting at the altar while your designer does last-minute fittings on you. It would help if you discuss your gown with the designer, armed with photographs or clippings of your ideal gown from magazines or the Net. Take along a patient and candid friend or sibling who won’t hesitate to tell you if you look like a tart in that color and design. Consider a style that allows you to walk, dance, sit and hug people without ripping at the seams. And sometimes it’s easier to buy your shoes first, before looking for a gown to match it.
Choose your designer wisely, one who won’t impose his designs on you but takes the time to read your personality before recommending what style suits you best. For most designers, half the battle is determining how the bride wants to look on her big day. The other half is executing her chosen style at its most flattering.
SIM sought out seven of Manila’s top bridal designers to describe their favorite bridal gown designs and give us an insight on how brides seek out their dream dress.
VITTORIO BARBA Signature bridal style: Non-traditional with lots of fabric texture; stays away from saccharine embellishments.
Questions brides ask: Brides already have a pre-conceived idea of how they want to look on their wedding day, so the first thing they ask is if their idea is okay. They follow this up with questions on the details of the dress—color, fabric, accessories.
Most memorable: Anna Garamendi-De Venecia’s dress of short duchess satin and pleated piña. She was adamant about going against tradition and wanted a short dress route for her wedding and I willingly obliged.
Trends: Styles that show more skin, “red carpet” vs. “aisle”-oriented designs, vintage silhouettes.
JC BUENDIA Signature bridal style: I work on modern classics, clean, minimal beadwork with a touch of whimsy.
Top three questions brides ask: How much? How long will my train be? Will you be there at the wedding?
Most memorable: The one I did for my sister-in-law, Paulette. She had no choice, I was going to be her future kuya-in-law so I didn’t even ask what she wanted. For her, I whipped out a YSL-inspired cream suit and made her wear a boater hat with a veil. I gathered a dozen daisies and tied them with a satin ribbon for her bouquet.
RHETT EALA Signature bridal style: Classic and elegant, simple shapes with very feminine details.
Top three questions brides ask: Should my bridesmaids' dresses match my gown? Should I have a detachable train? Can I dance in that gown?
Most memorable: Of late, Katrina Garcia-Reyes' because she looked very sexy on her wedding day. I also loved Hilary Favila-Bautista's gown because I had the 1950's in mind when I designed her classic gown.
Trends: For a long time, brides opted for strapless gowns but now, sleeves and different necklines are coming back. Brides are also moving away from vintage and opting for a more modern look.
RAJO LAUREL Signature bridal style: Romance and luxury! I always apply this philosophy when I design anything, especially wedding gowns.
Questions: I normally begin by asking questions when I talk to my brides: When is the date of the wedding? What time? Where will you be holding your reception? The bride then asks: What color should my dress be? What are the latest trends in wedding themes? What colors would you recommend for my motif?
Most memorable: My sisters’! I am very close to them and they me gave carte blanche when I designed for them. I took an Anglo-Victorian-East Indian slant for my sister Venisse. I flew to Milan to buy her silk damask in the most gorgeous color: bisque. For my sister Gela, we went to Japan where we hoarded antique kimonos and vintage obis to create her modern Animè-inspired wedding gown.
JOJIE LLOREN Signature bridal style: My bridal dresses are simple and classic. Details are kept at a minimum. I prefer fabric manipulation to a lot of beadwork or embroidery.
Top three questions brides ask: How much would it cost? What materials would be used? What look would be best for me?
Most memorable: Jamby Madrigal, because I made two gowns for her; one for the ceremony and the other for the reception. I like her gown because it's the simplest I have ever made for a bride. Its utter simplicity made it the most difficult to make.
Trends: There's now a rising demand for fancier wedding gowns—frou-frou, lace, etc. This is probably because some brides are tired of the usual strapless, minimalist wedding gowns. They want to look different. Ivory is still a favorite color.
TIPPI OCAMPO Signature bridal style: Free-spirited and feminine with a touch of whimsy. I love juxtaposing elements and combining touches that are personal to the bride with modern silhouettes to come up with something fresh.
Top three questions brides ask: How much is your wedding package? How long will it take to do the gowns for the whole entourage? Do you also design for the groom and groom's men?
Most memorable: One of the first gowns I ever made, which was inspired by a children's book that the bride loved called “The Wedding of Miss Spider.” Her gown was very light-hearted and whimsical but still elegant. The inspiration extended to her entourage comprised solely of little girls. What I liked most about it was the complete trust that the bride had in me, even though I was still a new designer back then!
Trends and colors: All things natural and organic punched up with a strong, deep color or modernized with metallics. Lace will always be a favorite, especially when modernized with a sleek silhouette for a more current take on romanticism. Natural materials like piña, jusi and silks are perfect for the current trends as they can be left plain for clean, modern sensibilities, or dyed, painted and embroidered for those with a more ornate fashion sense.
RANDY ORTIZ Signature bridal style: Modern romantic minimalist.
Five questions he asks: What's your dream gown? Any particular cut? Neckline and fabric preference? Would you like it contemporary, themed or classic?
Most memorable brides: Lucy Torres-Gomez and Claudine Barretto-Santiago. They both wore simple, elegant and timeless gowns with distinct details that fit each one's personality.
Trends: Structured, voluminous, semi-serpentine silhouettes in metallic fabrics with touches of gold, silver and black.
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