MANILA, Philippines – Choi Garden is a restaurant that evokes Eastern regality from the onset. The doors open to present a dramatic black tunnel where you will find a cheongsam-clad hostess who will ask if you have a reservation. Depending on the time of day and the number of heads in your party, you will either be led to the red area or the black area.

On my first visit, on a Friday afternoon, I was led to the red area. This is right by the entrance of the restaurant and appears to have been designed for more casual affairs. The red, though, gets quite distracting. I felt like I was inside a pakwan (watermelon) and had to squint to read the menu. Even the food looked red. It might work for others or when you're drunk but it burned out my appetite for that afternoon.

So on my second visit, I made sure to be seated in the black area. Which is amazing. This is the fine dining aspect of the restaurant and was designed beautifully. As I crossed the tunnel to this area, I felt like I was entering a keyhole and falling into Chinese Wonderland. Very elegant, giant Chinese-inspired lamps adorn the ceiling; drapes that are neatly tied up create sections; wood carvings add texture to the walls, and a dragon on an antique pitcher sits atop a little circular table in the middle of the room, watching over the business.

Indeed, business is good. My third visit was for lunch on a weekday and the room was packed; even more so on my fifth visit, which was on a Monday night, for dinner. That Monday, I even spotted some of the rich and famous. More politicians and businessmen than showbiz celebrities, though. The list of reservations by the entrance is long and I learned that on some days, there's even a line. Parking is hell but they do have a valet.

Why the line? It's the classic business formula: great food at reasonable prices. Whether it be for an elaborate dinner with abalone and hard-to-find fish or for a simple dinner with shabu shabu or even for merienda with dim sum, you will be sure to find your mouth, stomach and pocket very happy. The hakaw is thick and juicy, as is the siomai; and the siao long pao is a ball of fun with the hot broth surprising you from within. For soup, the Hot and Sour Soup is perfect to calm a hungry stomach. As its name promises, it is both spicy and slightly sour. The ingredients of fish lip, sea cucumber and mushrooms add crunch so it's a delightful introduction for what's to come.

If you dine alone or in a pair, you may opt for either their rice toppings or fried noodles. They offer rice toppings of duck, chicken and pork, among others. Instead of being served in a bowl, as rice toppings usually are, at Choi they are served on a plate and the viands and few veggies placed atop the rice. The serving is generous, especially with the duck, whose fat at this restaurant is amazingly thick. The fried seafood noodles are also good for two and very filling and tasty.

Families or friends that come as a big group usually opt for a la carte or shabu shabu. The shabu shabu is fun and the restaurant is gaining a reputation for this feast. You are handed a checklist for the items you want included, instead of you just giving your orders to the waiter. The Double Soup in Pot is a double delight, in a yin-yang of a pot where the left side offers a more subtle broth and the right offers a more fiery one. The fiery side has a sate mix and is heavenly to sip; it doesn't need the separate dip comprised of soy sauce, chili, garlic, onions and shrimp paste. This side is perfect for meats. The other side is a little more bland but with the dip, it gains character.

A la carte is a la yummy too. This restaurant has mastered the art of the fried and spicy, as you will experience if you order their pork ribs or their spicy squid.

Best of all, as proudly announced on their paper place mats, the food here is cooked without MSG and with “less oil,” “less sugar” and “less salt.” “Less price” also because the restaurant implements a policy of no service charge.

How can you beat that? It’s the best choice!

Choi Garden. 12 Annapolis St., cor. Purdue St., San Juan City (it’s where Country Waffles used to be). 727-6042 / 727-7849, reservations recommended. Wheelchair access. Major credit cards accepted.