MANILA, Philippines- Birds of the same feather flock together, said the wise man. And so it goes with foreigners— both immigrants and visitors—in a country that is not their own. There is a tendency to look for like faces, like sounds, like interests, and of course, like food. In different parts of the world, there is a Chinatown, a Koreatown, a Little Russia, a Little Tokyo. (We Filipinos don’t seem to have “towns” in a lot of cities but when we do, we take it by storm! Take, for instance, Daly City, or Sundays at Victoria Park in Hong Kong.)

The great thing about the “littles” is that this would be your best bet for that authentic flavor and cuisine you are in search of. So in hip, hot Manila, when you need a good kimchi, your best bet would be one of those small restaurants in the periphery of Rockwell, which is becoming a Koreatown. And when you need a good sushi, you hit Little Tokyo.

Little Tokyo has been in existence as far as I can remember. It is a cluster of Japanese restaurants circling a tiny park with bonsai trees and extending to the part of the block facing Pasong Tamo. Here you will find Japanese food “institutions” in the Philippines such as Shinjuku, which has expanded recently, as well as restaurants that have gained a reputation more by word of mouth, like Kikufuji, which has been touted as the best alternative to Sugi for those on a more realistic budget.

Recently, the grapevine has been murmuring about Seryna, another Little Tokyo best. So I came to inspect.

Seryna is on the side street approaching Mile Long, just before the Mile Long McDonalds but on the left side. It would be easy to miss if not for the appropriately placed signage. While looking for parking, which can be quite a challenge, you will notice Japanese businessmen gathered at the entrance, assumedly waiting for their drivers or having just gotten dropped off, an encouraging sign that the food is truly Jap-worthy.

The sliding doors open to reveal very Japanese wooden interiors, Westernized seats to the right of the restaurant, by the sushi bar, and sunken seats to the left. I found the sunken seats to be too sunken for me and I wouldn’t recommend this area for anyone over 50, whether in denial or not. The wooden back rest was also quite uncomfortable so I found myself sporting a straight back for the duration of that meal.

Service is quick, though, and on my visits, I had no problem finding the server for the menu, a cup of hot tea, or napkins. But I understand the necessity of having the server by your side as you leaf through the menu: everything is written in Japanese; there are no English translations and you would be lost without a guide. You may be in the Philippines, but at this restaurant, if you don’t know your Japanese, you’re an outsider looking in.

And so I went for what I know best: sashimi and steak, which the food servers recommended as their bestsellers. It soon became clear why: freshness is a virtue of Seryna. The hamachi sashimi, especially, is to be much appreciated. The wagyu steak is also first presented in its raw form for inspection—or impression—purposes: the customer can appreciate the beef’s marbling in its raw glory before it is cooked in front of you. This is to be dipped in steak sauce or vinaigrette later on, for flavor.

If you decide to give Seryna a try, visit after the sun sets. Lunch isn’t half as impressive as dinner. The food server gives the set menu instead of the a la carte; and if you do get your hands on the a la carte menu, you soon realize that certain items are withheld until dusk. The lunch sushi platter isn’t very tasty either; you might as well hit Teriyaki Boy. Six small pieces of tuna maki come with a salmon, a tuna and an egg sushi. For some reason, these are not as enjoyable as the very fresh hamachi or salmon sashimi or sushi by the piece, like the uni sushi. I also ordered a yakitori over lunch, which I realized later on was a mistake, as this would be better appreciated with a good glass of crisp beer. The yakitori platter (five pieces) comes with chicken liver, tongue, fat (like chicharon on a stick), bacon wrapped around a quail egg, and bite-sized hotdogs.

Whatever time of day, though, soups and salads at this restaurant are quite enjoyable. They offer the standard miso soup but also have variations, like one with clams called the Umi No Miso Soup. This is great to start your meal, as miso soup usually is, although I wished I could taste more of the clams. The hot pot or nabe, which I tried later on, was very enjoyable. It is very amusing to watch as water suddenly rises from beneath the meats to the top of the paper bowl that works as the pot on top of a flame. It is also very tasty and quite filling for a quick lunch meal. The shabu shabu salad as presented on the menu does not deliver visually, as it looks totally different from the picture on the menu, but it is amazingly tasty, something attributed to the raw egg at its center.

Don’t be afraid to venture out to items that you desire but are not on the menu. Fried rice, for instance, is not on the menu, but is available and very good. Neither be afraid of adventure and try interesting items like their fried oyster or kaki fry, which is a very good starter.

Although the word of mouth commotion on Seryna has just surfaced in the past months, this Japanese restaurant has already been around for three years. It has a steady Japanese clientele that shows its reliability as a go-to restaurant for the Japs when they seek home. And that’s always a good sign if you are in search of good Japanese food. •

Seryna. 227 Chino Roces Ave. (formerly Pasong Tamo), Makati City. 894-3855. Wheelchair accessible. Major credit cards accepted. No reservations required.