MANILA, Philippines ? Since the time of the geishas and the Kabuki dancers of yore, white or fair skin has been associated with beauty.
It is no surprise then that in the 21st century, whitening products are all the rage in Asia, even in countries like Korea, Japan and China where people already have fair skin.
The Philippines is no exception, with the market for products that promise to give brown-skinned Filipinos whiter and fairer skin estimated to be worth as much as P5 billion. It is said that one of every two beauty products sold in the Philippines is a whitening preparation, which may be in the form of a facial foam, astringent or moisturizer for the face or body. All signs point to the fact that the market will continue to grow because of our ingrained aspiration for white skin.
?Most Filipinos, especially women, think that a white complexion is more beautiful than their own natural brown skin tone. The deep influence of Western culture has instilled in us the perception that fair, white skin is beautiful,? says May Samson, product manager for the Artistry cosmetic line of Amway Philippines.
Rica King, marketing director for the Philippines of Nivea manufacturer Beiersdorf, argues that the demand for whitening products goes beyond just colonial mentality, citing a recent study that showed that achieving fairer or whiter skin is a common aspiration among Asian mass markets, even those who?ve had little influence from colonial powers.
?This tells us that it is not solely about Filipinos not appreciating their native brown skin, but that Japanese and Chinese women are also into this whitening bandwagon despite their already fair skin,? King explains. ?The study shows that most of these consumers saw whiter skin as a symbol of purity, ethereal beauty, femininity and even a higher social and economic status, an indication of wealth. And this has been the same thinking since generations back.?
Ponds brand manager Jacqueline Yuengtian adds that Filipinos are also buying whitening products to protect their skin from the damaging effects of the sun. ?Sunlight has a profound effect on the skin, causing darkening, premature skin aging and a host of other skin changes. So consumers these days are getting to be more conscious about finding products that will help protect and maintain their skin,? she adds.
And it is not just the women who desire whiter skin or feel that they must protect themselves from the harmful rays of the sun. Men are starting to feel the urge, too, our sources point out.
?Majority of the buyers are still women,? concedes Samson, ?but with the growing trend in skin whitening products in the Philippines and with more people becoming conscious of their physical appearance, even men have started using these products,? she reveals.
Personal care product manufacturer and retailer HBC sees the same trend among men, with HBC skin care category manager Jonna Ramos noting that the growing demand has been coming from the so-called metrosexuals who are as conscious of their looks as women are.
It is precisely because of this expanding market for whitening products among the menfolk that Nivea has come out with a specially-formulated line of products for the macho set who want a more even skin tone.
?The structure, thickness and coarseness of men?s skin differ from that of women, which is why men should use personal care products specially formulated for them, to be able to maximize the whitening and skin care benefits offered,? says King. ?Various whitening products for men are now available in the market, including lotions and deodorants, and yes, sales among Filipino men are quite brisk.?
Not all whitening products are created equal, however.
Because of the increasing demand for whitening products, there is always the danger of consumers getting their hands on products that are not exactly safe to use. There will always be manufacturers and distributors out there who will sell inferior products for a fast buck.
The Philippine Dermatological Society has thus called on consumers to consider safety first when buying whitening products.
?Apart from its effectiveness, product safety is one of the biggest concerns right now in the delivery of this beauty aspiration,? says Yuengtian of Unilever. Their products, she says, use ingredients that are not only effective, but have also passed international product safety standards.
King says as much about Nivea products: ?The brand?s credibility and the consumers? skin health are always top priority,? she underscores. HBC, meanwhile, has come up with the Body Recipe natural skincare brand that relies on natural whitening products, such as kalamansi, papaya, milk and pure coconut oil. Godiva skincare products, on the other hand, use licorice, an ingredient that has been proven safe and effective in whitening skin, says Godiva?s Fred Reyes.
The Artistry Pure White line, on the other hand, uses 10 ingredients to deliver on its promise of a healthier, fairer skin, according to Samson. They are white tea, chamomile, bitter orange peel, oat, potato protein, vitamin C, licorice, bearberry, acerola cherry and ergothionine.
The personal care product manufacturers in the Philippines are, indeed, stepping up their efforts to capture a slice of the whitening market because it shows no signs of slowing down, defying inflation and the trend of depressed sales among other cosmetic products.
Observes King: ?People are getting better educated now, and they know the importance of proper skin care and protection. And for a huge number of consumers across the world, whitening as an added benefit to their caring products means more than just changing their shade of color.?
Adds Samson: ?Despite the reduction in disposable income and in the purchasing power of consumers, Filipinos are still keen on maintaining and enhancing their beauty. Skin care products, especially whitening products, will continue to be on the shopping list of beauty-conscious Filipinos.?