IT was ?Baler? director Mark Meily?s film about the Siege of Baler that triggered a new generation?s interest in the town, particularly the movie?s portrayal of Katipuneros? heroics.

But beyond its cinematic allure, Baler has recently become a favorite destination of surfers, mountaineers, and island adventurers. Discovering Baler is also learning part of a gravely overlooked history and feasting the eyes on unspoiled, glorious islands nestled between the deep blue waters of the Pacific Ocean and the mountains of Sierra Madre.

Baler is the capital of Aurora province and an eight-hour ride straight from a bus station in Pasay City. Expect a bumpy ride for an hour or two after the town of Pantabangan, Nueva Ecija, but the lush trees and rustic charm of the towns more than make up for the brief inconvenience.

A surprise is in store for first-time visitors. The towns leading to Aurora are remote and bucolic so one would expect the same of the province. But in Baler, restaurants, convenience stores, computer cafés, souvenir shops, and even a pizzeria line the streets, providing basic comforts and convenience of visitors as well as the locals as they go about their daily chores.

Where to go depends on what a tourist wants to do first: visit the historical sites or plunge into the waters of Sabang beach. The Museo de Baler is a treasure trove of information on Aurora?s ancient tribes and their indigenous way of life from the pre-Spanish regime. It is interesting to read about the Aetas, Dumagats and Ilongots who dominated the mountains of Baler in earlier times but whose number is now dwindling due to migration and intermarriages.

Along the grounds of the museum is the exact spot where Philippine Commonwealth President Manuel L. Quezon was born, in a small nipa hut now called Casa de Maestro Lucio. Not far from the museum is the famous Baler church where the Siege of Baler took place in 1898. Spanish soldiers avoided captivity by hiding inside the church, refusing to believe that the Filipinos won the war.

While the church has retained its basic structure, it has been painted over to protect it from ruin. A history buff, however, would want to see the authentic church interiors preserved in as close to their original state as possible.

The church, originally made of nipa and wood, was constructed under the leadership of Franciscan Fray Francisco de San Antonio in 1611. There are markers on the spot where Katipuneros tirelessly held their ground to guard the church, as well as where Lieutenant Commander James C. Gilmore (commanding officer of the gunboat USS Yorktown that was sent to Baler to rescue the Spanish soldiers) conspicuously stood along San Luis Street in front of the municipal hall.

While these serve to remind visitors of the town?s historical significance, more than the markers, the locals are still the best source of stories. They know and are proud of their history, and communication is not a problem because the predominant languages in Aurora are Tagalog, Ilocano, Visayan, and English.

Ermita Hill is the best place in town to await the sunrise. In the 18th century, a tsunami destroyed Baler and only a number of families survived by running to these hills. A reminder of that event is immortalized by a sculpture and marker along the side of the hills that the Balerianos call Tromba Marina. According to tourism officer Wilma Gonzales, Ermita Hill is being developed as a park with a mini-zoo as part of the tourism development program of the province.

Surfing has gained popularity in the town and opened up tremendous tourism opportunities. Aurora has three surfing sites: Sabang Beach, Cemento Beach, and Charlie?s Point. The Aurora Surfing Cup is held every February. Charlie?s Point is also known for having been the location spot for the filming of the Hollywood movie ?Apocalypse Now,? which first introduced and eventually popularized surfing in the province. The story goes that when the film crew left their surfboards behind, and the locals took up the sport and discovered a passion for it.

A 30-minute speedboat ride brings tourists to Dicasalarin Beach. It can also be reached via another route if trekkers want to negotiate the slopes of Sierra Madre. The beauty of Dicasalarin can rival that of any of the other famous beaches in the country. Spend at least a few minutes before sunset at the hill where a lighthouse soon to be built would tower over the island. Mixed emotions of awe, inspiration, and peace engulf a troubled soul at the sight of a calm sea and pristine virgin forest. This could be one of the best ways to detoxify from the hustle and bustle of the city. Senator Edgardo Angara, who is a native of Baler, maintains a private cove on the island and is working to promote the town and province.

There are tons of things going on in Baler these days, especially while the town is celebrating its 400th year. For thrill-seeking individuals, there are mountains to climb and beaches to swim in. There is Lukso-Lukso, a coral reef and rock formation that makes for a perfect spot to watch migratory birds.

Baler is becoming a prime tourist destination. Westerners and other Asians are a common sight on Sabang beach where one can find the Bay?s Inn hotel and restaurant. Many resorts are now being developed to accommodate the anticipated influx of tourists. There is also the Bahia de Baler, a 10-15 minute tricycle ride from Sabang.

Three days may not be enough to tour the entire town of Baler, because any Filipino would want to brush up on history while enjoying nature at its most unspoiled. But the great thing about Baler is that it?s a place that will always be waiting out there, easy to reach for a quick lesson on Philippine history and pride in being Filipino and free, and having a really good time. ?

For more information about Baler and its quadricentennial celebrations visit: www.aurora.ph.