10 more reasons to check out Eastern Samar

IF you’ve not been to Eastern Samar, one of three provinces that comprise the country’s third largest island of Samar, then you don’t know what you’re missing.

There is just so much to behold, savor and experience in Eastern Samar – although it does not boast of five-star accommodations nor does it offer luxurious and efficient transportation services.

But what it lacks in creature comforts, it more than makes up for in God-given sights and resources as well as historical significance that are just waiting for adventurous travelers to discover.

Ten reasons why you should go:

1. For its history. Very few Filipinos, for example, realize that it was in Eastern Samar where Ferdinand Magellan landed on March 16, 1521, thus completing his circumnavigation of the globe and proving once and for all that the world is indeed round and not flat.

Magellan called the place, specifically Homonhon Island in Eastern Samar’s southernmost town of Guiuan, Zamal, which later became Samar. Estehanons – as the Waray of Eastern Samar call themselves – like to believe that the first Mass was likewise held here, although other towns claim the same distinction. But there is no dispute that the Portuguese navigator first set foot in Eastern Samar, which centuries later is fast building a reputation as an ecotourism destination.

The easiest way to get to Eastern Samar is to take the one-hour flight to Tacloban City, Leyte from Manila, followed by the three-to four-hour road trip onboard a bus or a van. The buses in Tacloban’s transportation terminal will take you past the famous San Juanico bridge, then through parts of Samar and some of the northern towns of Eastern Samar, like Taft, Sulat, San Julian and the capital town, Borongan.

2. For the birds. Keep your eyes peeled for the many species of birds that still have a home in Taft’s forests, including the Philippine eagle, hornbills and hawks. The airconditioned vans, on the other hand, take the south road, which is more scenic as it hugs the coast.

3. For its beaches. One thing you’ll find in plenty in the towns of Eastern Samar is a good beach, especially in the town of Sulat, where the beaches are far from being crowded, unlike those in Batangas, Cavite or Boracay. The water is warm, quiet and safe so there’s no need to fear being swept by the undertow in this town, where the Jesuits put up one of their first missions.

4. Go fish. If snorkeling is your thing, you can check out the reefs of San Julian or choose to stay in the capital town of Borongan, where you will find the Monbon island fish sanctuary. The sanctuary is home to all kinds of colorful tropical fish that are still abundant in practically the entire province.

Staying off the beaten tourist track definitely has its advantages.

5. Go cruisin’. You can also try out the cruise up and down the Suribao River where the water is emerald green. Venture far enough and you will see waterfalls along the way. Think of it as your own private trip to a lowland paradise.

6. For its delicacies and seafood. Sample the local delicacies: piking made from cassava; podpod or smoked fish shaped into discs; salukara, the Waray version of the pancake flavored with animal fat; and tuba or coconut toddy. You can also feast on fresh seafood such as tuna, coral fish, shrimps, lobsters and mollusks.

7. Legend of the Falls. In the mood for more falls? Then try the Amanhuray and Amandaraga falls of Lawaan, the first town of Eastern Samar if you’re coming from Tacloban via the coastal road. Be sure to get one of the locals to take you there, as signboards are almost nonexistent. Local guides here are only too eager to show off their treasure.

8. In memory of the bells of Balangiga. Close to Lawaan is the history-rich town of Balangiga, site of the infamous Balangiga massacre.

This took place on Sept. 28, 1901, when Filipino rebels – armed with little more than bolos and a stout heart – attacked and killed almost all of the American troops staying at the municipal building and church convent. The Americans quickly retaliated and killed hundreds of Filipino rebels, later taking with them the church bells as war trophies.

The bells remain on display at the Warren Air Force Base in Cheyenne, Wyoming and have remained there despite repeated attempts by the Roman Catholic Church in the Philippines to get them back, describing them as church property that should be returned to Balangiga.

9. For the surf. If you only have so much time to spare and can only go to one town, your best option is to stay in Guiuan, for it offers that unique blend of adventure and history.

History abounds because aside from Magellan’s landing, it was here where the military aircraft used by the US Army during World War II took off. The airstrip is still there and is being upgraded to accommodate regular commercial flights.

Guiuan is also being packaged as a surfer’s paradise with the Calicoan Surf Camp put up by private investors from Cebu as the main base. It has been offering surfing lessons for years now, while filling up top accommodations in Eastern Samar with its share of Korean honeymooners who fly in from Cebu.

10. For your faith. The devout Catholics will also find something to do here as the town is home to a 400-year-old stone Catholic Church and a chapel in Sulangan, where pilgrims come from all over the country to pray to San Antonio de Padua. These petitioners’ requests range from family members passing the board exams, to getting a job overseas, to the blessing of a pregnancy and safe childbirth.

Indeed, your budget and your spirit of adventure will go a long long way in Eastern Samar. That is, if you don’t allow the spate of bad roads to stop you on your tracks. •