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Sustainable Eating

By Margaux Salcedo
Philippine Daily Inquirer
First Posted 17:29:00 07/24/2010

Filed Under: Food, Restaurants & catering, Lifestyle (House & Home)

SOMETIMES we get so engrossed with the now that we forget the how.

This is not a good thing because while this brings enviable pleasure, it may result in long-term destruction. Just as our parents hurt when we stray, so does Mother Nature wither away when we abuse her. Worse, unlike parents who have infinite patience, the earth exacts justice in the form of droughts, landslides or really scary typhoons.

Our generation faces the challenge of finding a balance between development and the conservation of natural resources. This is what?s known as sustainable development: ensuring the long term quality and abundance of the earth?s resources while continuing to grow economically. This is not just the government?s problem as environmental concerns are directly linked to market activity. Which means that you and I have a say; basic decisions made by consumers and companies affect both the abundance and quality of the earth?s natural resources.

This is something that the owners of Le Bistro Vert understand. It calls itself a sustainable restaurant, one that is committed to the preservation of our environment as seen in its use of organic ingredients, its practice of fair trade and support for local farmers.

In fact most of the ingredients here are sourced from farmers all over the country. You will find items on the menu such as Sagada orange, Palawan cashew, GenSan tuna or Lucban longganisa. But thanks to the creativity of Chef Sau del Rosario of M Cafe and Chelsea fame (not to mention Selecta ice cream), taste is not sacrificed in favor of sustainable mission.

The Beef Mignon ?Bifstek Style? is pouncing in flavor, possibly thanks to the garlic confit or then again, maybe I?m just a sucker for good ol? toyo (soy sauce). The Apahap Fillet, which is presented enveloped in mustard leaf, tastes really fresh, as if the mustasa enveloped it with love, not with its inherent bitterness. Both the Lemongrass Turmeric Chicken Satay and the Prawn Vietnamese Spring Rolls are made extremely pleasurable by the light (as opposed to drowning in oil) yet rich peanut sauce. And the herbs in the White Oriental Mushroom Linguini made this pasta dish shine, even if the truffle essence was difficult to decipher.

Other dishes were less cohesive, with the ingredients not quite at ease together, like boys and girls in a high school soiree, although all good-tasting and good-looking in their own right. The salad of Sagada Orange, Carabao Cheese and Tomato, for instance, was worthy of a Fuji photo, so beautifully laid out on the plate, with each item shining in its own glory (the Sagada Orange was especially tart). Yet somehow they didn?t seem comfortable together.

There were also items that went to opposite extremes, either too loud or too silent. The salad of bleu cheese, arugula and apple kills you with the arugula that your tongue will be arugula?d with its strong flavors, in spite of the attempt to temper this with the sweetness of the apples. The kesong puti, while beautifully crumbly in texture, lacked in the saltiness of good carabao cheese. The Chicken and Pork Adobo Sushi, while beautifully presented and a fine idea, was lost in translation, the adobo flavors disappearing in the midst of the blank taste of the Sagada rice.

All this is forgotten, however, when you have a bite of any of the sans rivals. Whether you go for the Valrhona Sans Rival or the Toblerone Sans Rival, you will forget for a moment all your responsibilities on earth. Kind of a vertigo experience at Le Bistro Vert. With each bite of this, forget sustainable, all that matters is the now, forget the how.

But of course we won?t. We can be responsible eaters, after all. ?

Le Bistro Vert. Fraser Place, Valero Street, Salcedo Village, Makati City. Tel. 403-1841. www.lebistro.ph. Second floor; no wheelchair access. Major credit cards accepted. Parking is a challenge. No reservations required.



Copyright 2012 Philippine Daily Inquirer. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.


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