A FRIENDLY Korean lady in a simple house dress reminiscent of our own favorite homebody titas greets you at the door. The crowd is predominantly Korean, their mother tongue echoing across the small space. The giant xintra board lists the menu in Korean. The only thing that reminds you that you are still in the Philippines is the fact that all the waitresses are Filipinos ?young, skinny Filipinas, actually.

The lady, who is apparently the owner of the restaurant, Chungkiwa Banchan Nara, is very charming. She warmly ushers you to a vacant table, a personal touch no longer found at other, more established Korean restaurants in the metro, like Dong Won on Jupiter Street in Makati (although they have very friendly, efficient and accommodating waitresses).

Asking for her assistance as I studied the menu, I learned of a few culinary observations that they have of our food. ?Beef,? she said, pointing to the picture, ?im-poh-ted [imported] because Filipino beef ? not good.? I listened attentively. ?But Filipino pohk [pork],? she said with a smile and a glint in her eye, ?masalap [masarap/tasty]. Premium.?

She was describing what would be best for the barbecue or gogi gui, a favorite dinner dish that involves cooking the meat yourself on a grill that is at the center of your table. At some restaurants, like Dong Won, they actually use charcoal, which explains that strong, enticing aroma that greets you as you walk in the restaurant door.

We went for both her recommendations which, sadly, both let us down. I realized soon enough that we should have ordered the woosamgyup or beef brisket instead, as this involves more thinly sliced meat. And the premium pork was too premium for our taste ... as it is predominantly pork fat. As much as we love samgyeopsal (translates to ?three layered meat?) or Korean pork barbecue, no amount of lettuce could douse the cholesterol content on this one, and I personally can?t imagine how anyone can go beyond a few pieces.

But the banchan or side dishes at this restaurant are exceptional. Especially compared to the banchan at Dong Won where, as I looked at a sad order of kimchi, the waiter had to comfort me by saying, ?Mas masarap yan ma?m habang tumatagal [it gets better]." I understand the concept of vinegared delicacies, being a big fan of achara, but the greens in that order looked a little shady.

At Chungkiwa, the banchan engages you and seems to tell you that you can look forward to what?s about to be served. As you may know, Korean meals are usually accompanied by a spread of side dishes called banchan that include kimchi, dilis, togue, spinach, and other Asian starters. At this restaurant, as their name suggests, they?ve mastered the art of teasing your palate with the banchan to a T.

The soups are also recommendable especially the bulnak junggol or beef and octopus soup. It?s refreshing yet spicy, perfect on a rainy day. They also have a fabulous Korean chop suey called nakjibokum. I watched the Koreans sitting next to us mix the white rice with the veggies. It helps temper the spiciness.

I?m sure for some expats, Chungkiwa is a kind of home away from home. Aside from the authentic flavors, this restaurant, through the lady of the house, has managed to really bring some Korean heart to the center of Makati. ?

Chungkiwa Banchan Nara. General Luna cor Don Pedro Streets, Makati City. Tel. 4073218. Cel. 0916 -6628711. Wheelchair access (but steep). Cash basis. No reservations required. Also Korean food delivery.