MENTION Pangasinan and the first thought that probably pops into most people?s head would be the Hundred Islands in Alaminos.

But Pangasinan?s capital, Lingayen, a first-class town nestled in the middle of the long coastal stretch of the Lingayen Gulf, is definitely worth a visit. A mere three- to four-hour drive from Manila through NLEX, Lingayen is fast becoming a tourist destination because of its historical and cultural significance during World War II, as well as its wide sandy beaches and tasty local treats.

As a recent first-time visitor to this charming town, I share this list of things to do in Lingayen:

1. Be a beach bum. With sugary-fine black sand that sparkles in the sun, rippling waves and a coastline that goes on for miles, the Lingayen beach is a very good alternative to other seaside destinations that people flock to during the holidays.

?Visitors really love the beach here,? says Flor Versoza, owner of the El Puerto Marina Beach Resort and Spa, the premiere resort of Lingayen Gulf. ?It?s not rocky and children can play freely on the sand. Since it?s not congested, people find it very relaxing here.?

It?s also a very historic beach, being the landing place of Gen. Douglas McArthur when he returned to liberate Luzon on January 9, 1945 during World War II.

But don?t expect a party scene or establishments lining the shore like Boracay or Puerto Galera. The beach is ideal for family getaways and cozy sunset weddings, says Versoza.

2. Sample the seafood. While Lingayen is best known for its bagoong or fish paste (people here even celebrate a Bagoong Festival on the last week of April), it also has other noteworthy dishes.

Pinca (dried swordfish), longganisang Lingayen (a less garlicky version of other variants), and bangus (milkfish from neighboring Dagupan city) are all local specialties, best eaten for breakfast with a heaping plate of garlic fried rice. The pinakbet, made with an assortment of fresh chopped vegetables and bagoong isda (salted and fermented fresh fish) is a delectable dish that can be a whole meal in itself.

We also got to sample a buffet of fresh steamed crabs, shrimp and kilawing talaba (oyster ceviche) during a beach bonfire on our first night. Need I say more?

3. Check out the Capitol Complex. Built in 1918, Lingayen?s Provincial Capitol Complex is a stunning example of pre-war architecture, with grand columns, polished wooden floors, a spiral staircase and a spectacular view of the beach from the roof deck.

It is said to be the most beautiful capitol building in the country and has been identified as one of the eight architectural treasures of the Philippines by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts and the Filipino Heritage Festival, Inc.

4. Take a heritage tour. Many other sites in Lingayen have some cultural significance, starting with the ancestral house of former President Fidel V. Ramos. The Sison Auditorium, originally built in 1927, has been refurbished as a venue for private functions, as well as provincial and cultural activities and conventions. Other sites include the Casa Real (the old capitol), the Urduja House (Governor?s Office) and a string of charming old houses along the poblacion. A set of antique church bells displayed outside Lingayen?s Church of Epiphany is also worth a visit. Interestingly, all government buildings in Lingayen have been painted yellow to reflect the ?golden age of Pangasinan.?

5. Cruise along the Agno River. The Agno River is the fifth largest river system in the country that empties out into the South China Sea via the Cordillera Mountains. The Limahong Channel lies near the mouth of the Agno River about four miles from the sea. According to locals, the Limahong Channel, named after a notorious Chinese pirate and warlord who invaded the northern Philippine Islands in 1574, was dug as his escape route.

Today it is one of Lingayen?s top attractions, where visitors can ride kayaks or small motorized boats. Plans are underway for floating restaurants like the ones that cruise the Loboc River in Bohol.

During our peaceful river tour, we saw little floating huts with wooden poles and large nets that could be submerged in the water. The poles, our boatman reveals, are lit at night and this attracts shrimps into the net.

6. Catch the sunrise. Since we only had two days in Lingayen, I made it a point to wake up early on Sunday to catch the sunrise. During my early morning walk, I practically had the whole beach to myself. It was a full 10 minutes before I came across fishermen rolling their boats with logs into the water to cast their nets and local children playing by the shore. Later in the morning, more locals came out to jog on the beach, bike on the shore and swim.

7. Explore the area via ATV. The Lingayen Gulf stretches 56 kilometers (35 miles) across the coastal province of Pangasinan all the way to La Union. Imagine having that whole stretch of beach to yourself to explore on an all-terrain vehicle. El Puerto Marina rents out these motorized vehicles that make you just want to drive off into the sunset. A small ATV track is also located near the shoreline by the hotel.
8. Indulge in water sports. Since the Lingayen Gulf is located in the middle of a concave bay, the waters of the South China Sea are tamed into rippling waves by the time they hit shore. The waves too are ideal for water sports like kayaking, skim boarding and surfing. During the months when the waters are calmer, visitors can rent out banana boats. Meanwhile, the sandy shore is perfect for building sandcastles and playing beach volleyball. Obstacle courses can also be set up for team-building sessions and family games.

9. Learn from the locals. From the resort owners of El Puerto Marina, to market vendors and the security guards of heritage houses, everywhere we went, the people were warm and welcoming. It was evident from the stories they shared how proud they are of Lingayen. So make sure to interact with people and ask questions when you go around.

10. Buy pasalubong. For a lot of people, shopping for unique products to take home is the highlight of any trip. Don?t forget to stop at the local market to buy packs of dried fish like pinca as well as boneless or marinated bangus. We saw firsthand how the vendors skillfully deboned fish at the market using surgical scissors. Meanwhile, fish vendors told us that pinca comes in three varieties, with the smaller fish considered the best. A pack of the third-class fish costs around P80, while the tastier first-class variety costs P100 a pack.

If you?re interested in buying in bulk, drop by a bagoong factory, where you can see huge vats of shrimp and fish ferment. The best known brand, J & E?s, supplies local groceries and supermarkets and sells export quality products of this favorite Pinoy condiment best enjoyed with kare-kare or green mango back home.

El Puerto Marina Resort. Don Martin Domingo St., Pangapisan, North Lingayen, Pangasinan. Telephone: (632) 7756789/ (632) 852 3404 / (6375) 5425328.